Wood window restoration and repair is something that needs to be done about every 50 years. If you wait until your windows are in an emergency state of repair, you’re taking a risk and the task of wood window restoration will that much more involved.
Replacement window companies will often compare their product to a neglected historic wood window that has NOT been restored or maintained – an old wood window that would undoubtedly be drafty and inefficient.
Window companies will boast that their windows are Maintenance Free. That is true because Maintenance Free means Cannot be Maintained. Their replacement windows will be in the landfill in 20 years.
Wood window restoration and repair is easier than you think. Old wood windows were made to be repaired. They can easily be taken apart to insert new rails or muntins (cross pieces separating the panes). Broken parts can be remade or whole sashes can be duplicated. They can last 200+ years.
Rotted wood can be repaired to look like new with easy-to-use epoxy fillers designed for wood window restoration. In many cases, these windows have been in service for over a hundred years with much of their deterioration resulting directly from a lack of maintenance.
Your windows are made from old wood which does not compare to the wood of today .
With repairs and regular maintenance, the life of these old wood windows can be extended for an additional 200 years.
You are a steward to and old building with old windows. Please be responsible and Do NOT neglect your old windows.
How to Repair Old Wood Windows
Wood storm window is rotted out but can be restored.
Wood window restoration saved this hanging wood storm window from the landfill.
The quality of the wood your old windows are made of will not be seen again. That virgin forest wood is close-grained and resinous. Today’s young lumber cannot match the longevity of the historic wood.
There is now a new process for making softer wood hard as a rock. It’s called Thermally Modified Wood and you can read more about it here.
To trash your old windows is to trash a superior material that can no longer be purchased. A replacement window will need replacement before the old one would have needed simple maintenance.
Replacement windows are disposable and will end up in the landfill, contributing to more waste. Multiply that replacement being replaced again every 20 years. All the manufacturer needs to do is sit by and wait for the money to come in again and again.
First check out this blog with numerous How-To links. If the links don’t help you Scott also wrote an excellent book on everything you need to know. Click here.
Steve Jordan – The Window Sash Bible – Do it Yourself Window Restoration.
In this book Steve covers traditional methods and the latest in modern high-tech materials and techniques.
DIY Video: Repair & Restoring Old Wood Windows
The Michigan State Historic Preservation Office received a grant to fund a five part video series – “Simple Steps to Working Windows”. In these detailed videos, viewers will learn what it takes and how to repair and restore old wood windows.
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Window Webinars & How to’s
For more information on windows and their restoration click here
Historic Window Repair – Sash Joint Dutchman
Restoring Window Sashes – Fine Homebuilding
Understanding Old Wood versus New Wood – Brent Hull video
Window Information Continued . . .
I live in Southern VT. Can you recommend any company that repairs and restores wood windows in my area?
Please refer to my windows page for someone in your area.
Hello! Does anyone have any feedback as to how much they’ve paid to have their old windows restored? Windows re-glazed, ropes replaced, weather-stripped, and wood sashes/opening re-finished? I know there are some different variables but just trying to get an idea of an appropriate cost range. Thanks!
6/6 double hung apx. $1000 in NJ.
$1,000-$1,100/window for original Victorian double-hung windows here in Northern California.
Hello there
I am starting to restore the window stores at my mum’s home and I’m not sure about a few things:
a) do I need to sand off ALL former paint?
b) should I use some primer before spray painting/coating?
Thanks for your advice!
Cheers, Phil
All paint should be removed before priming and painting. Do no use spray paint.
My old windows have 5 layers of paint in them, three of which tested positive for lead. Make sure you know proper lead abatement techniques when removing old paint. Friend of my Father died from lead poisoning from painting an old house.
We’re in a house built in 1988 with wooden windows. I’m looking into repairing. Did the overall quality of wood windows decline over time? What resource would help me identify quality windows that are worth repairing or a lower quality that I might be better off replacing? It there is such a difference.
Good question. I honestly don’t know. I would compare the price to replace them with the exact windows. While 1980’s wood is nothing like heart grown wood it is probably still better and much much cheaper to repair them.
I generally do strip my windows carefully and completely. I do this to restore the detail in the muntins etc. Usually after 60 years of painting, this detail is gone.
This process has now become more difficult as high perf strippers are no longer available to the consumer market and prices have gone way up in the commercial market. I now primarily strip with heat (becareful) and then clean up what I can of the detail with shaped scrapers and chemical strippers.
Looking for someone to repair old wood windows in my rent house in Searcy Arkansas, any recommendations of anyone close?
Did you look at our listing of window restorers?
@Ken Roginski
I just came across your site thankfully!
We have a grade 2 listed Georgian gentleman’s residence in the UK.
I am not sure if the paint rules for sash windows and rules on Trim for skirting boards etc would be the same in the UK houses, but i am thinking so as it would stem from classical design?
We have three, 200 year old, 6 over 6 huge sash windows that we were going to replace with ones built in Wood following the same design , so should look exactly the same when made.
The conservation officer agreed to us doing this if we please.
We got a restoration joiner to look at our windows and he said it would be about £1500 to restore the windows, or the same to remake new windows, as the entire lower sashes need to be replaced apparently.
The house was not maintained for 50 years so alot of the windows have peeling paint (black) and are bare in some areas.
I am thinking now after reading this about the old wood being highly superior, that maybe it is a mistake to replace them?
We were worried to spend £1500 repairing a window ony to find we needed to replace it later anyway and thought maybe new windows would give us greater life.
Could you tell if i emailed you pics whether they are too far gone or not?
Thanks for all this useful information!
Hi – It’s up to your restorer if he thinks the wood is restorable based on his expertise. Personally I would prefer the original old wood that is stronger than what you get today. I’m sure they won’t use pine but something stronger by today’s standards anyway. Practically all windows can be restored. I remember when I worked for the state we had a window that had rotted muntins and just the muntins were remade. No one really knows if new hard wood will last longer than the 200 years you already got from the originals. At least you will know they are the originals but see what your restorer says.
After years of dealing with window replacement people knocking on my door I still enjoy the athstedics our old Windows. New dilemma. Restoring a door in back that still has punched louver screen on oak frame. Can’t find anything about this. Small area needs replaced. Suggestions?
Charles
Thank you for this video. Part 3 answered all my questions on what I should do after I broke my glass while restoring my house windows. Again, thank you.
I need a reliable contractor in DC area who can repair and restore my old windows. They are in decent shape and conditional actually, so they only require small fixes like reglazing, filling up a few rotted spots, fixing a sash rope etc. I checked the list on this website but couldn’t find someone who actually does work in the area or would do the repairs I need. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks. Onur.
Sorry – The contractors I know are posted. Not keeping any to myself if that’s what you mean.
We have 8 over 12 colonial style sashes from 1939 in good wood condition.
I have restored many with Dap 33 but hate its slow set time. really a waste of time. I am good at it.
Our Ace Hardware guy says he has used Nu-Puttie for years and calls it durable. A sash he did one day before seemed paintable to me. It laid in very very smooth. He gave me a test gob of it. It laid in smooth for me. I put over 150 hours into each pair of sashes.
Should I risk this stuff??
No – Sarco glazing putty is the best you can get by far.
I have tried both Nu-puttie and Dap 33. I find Nu putty is very grabby, hard to get a good looking bead. Ace likes it because you can paint right away and finish the job.
I find I do a much nicer job of glazing with Dap 33. I have just put up with letting it dry a week or two before I paint it.
You’d think someone would bring out a new product that had the quality of 33 and the speed of nuputty, but it hasn’t happened yet! 30 years I’m waiting.
Sarco putty is supposed to be the best. http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=447
excellent videos thank you so much. i have built a few sashes for my house. they had been tightened up with weatherstrip and metal strip grooved into the sides. now, i am considering a contract job of removing a housefull of replacement windows and building all new wooden sash. what are your thoughts on incorporating those “improvements” on a new build?
also, after priming and glazing how long to wait before painting the fresh glaze?
New build? – why not.
Glazing – I have no idea.
Living in a old house has charm and character and a lot of work. I love my old windows but I’m not sure if they will hold up. I might need to replace but I’m scared of losing the character of the home. Thank you for sharing!
Believe me wood windows will definitely hold up. They just need to be taken care of.
I have a house built in 1948. I want to restore the windows. The previous owner scraped the windows but did not repaint or glaze them. The windows have aluminum tracks along the sides the whole length of the window. I was able to get the sash out by tipping the bottom part of track outwards. However my question is some of the top sashes do not stay up. I do not see any sash cords or for the counter balance devices. How do I tighten these rails so the sashes stay in place? Also, can I spray foam along the sides of these windows if the are no weights?
Sorry but I really don’t know. The real window expert is here where you can post your question. http://www.historichomeworks.com
Hello
I have a 1939 home with the original windows and most of the original storm windows. I am looking at replacing 4 windows due to the prior owner having painted them a bit open, yes open, and to increase efficiency and cut drafts,… They are easy enough to repair for they are in quite good shape. If I have these restored, can they be made to be as efficient as the new double pain sashes? I am looking at Marvin for a sash replacement only.
Thank you
Sounds like you didn’t read my website. Sorry I can’t repeat everything I wrote here. Please read my website. The answer is there. Actually your questions is answered numerous times.
Hi, I have a beautiful old double hung wood window in my small bathroom that opens to 3 season porch and not the outside. I want to make this window narrower in order to accommodate adding a shower above an existing bathtub located directly to the left of the window (the existing window trim on left side extends partially over the tub, but w/ a shower Curtin to be installed w shower head, the window needs to either be removed or narrowed toward the right). I’m not a carpenter but have a friend willing to help me who is handy w trim work. My vision (may be naïve) is to remove the upper and lower windows, cut a 12″ section out of the middle and reconnect – thus leaving the edges and joins and dowels etc intact on left and tight ends of the window. And move the existing left side window trim 12″ to the right to be located next to the narrower windows. And also avoid major wall damage (plaster w wire walls). Is any of this feasible? Or ideas?
Thanks
Jim
Sorry – I only do consulting for design. I can’t help with any construction.
What would you repair a wood window that has been chewed up a bit on the inside?
I would use a wood filler and stain it to match.
I’m about to begin a window restoration project! We’re interested in a dark sash for the exterior look, but I don’t think I want the dark on every window interior… must sashes be one color? Or can we paint the exterior and interior different colors?
Just because you have a dark green window sash on the exterior does not mean that you need to also paint the interior. Do you paint your interior walls the same color as the exterior of your house? Interior windows should be natural wood and match all the interior trim. A Colonial can have painted interior trim.
Where can I find a sash chain pulley for a large double hung window.
Try https://www.vandykes.com/
A good hardware store should have them too.
Maybe I haven’t dug around enough, but I’m wondering about replacing glass on wood windows. Everyone we contact wants to replace all of our windows and “update” our home (1987). We want to keep the wood. Can the glass be replaced? At this point we have found no one who can help.
Yes depending on the thickness of the glass. I have some wood storm windows on my house and I had on one window, the glass (was not original wavy glass) replaced with Pilkington insulated glass.window insulation Contact a regular glass business which should be easy to find locally. They will even come to your house to do glazing.
Hello,
I am an avid woodworker and I recently rescued an old antique window that a friend replaced in his house and left out in his backyard. I will soon be starting restoration on it.
I am planning on building a new workshop sometime in the not so distant future and would like to build reproduction windows for it. I am using the one I salvaged as a guide.
I realize old growth timber is no longer commercially available, but would I be better trying to find some reclaimed wood to build the windows with or would having my uncle mill me up some lumber harvested from my family’s property be better? My family has pine trees that have been growing for over 50 years and have not been touched.
I am positive either would be better than commercial lumber, but would appreciate your opinion.
I also work with antique hand tools, and have sash cutters for my combination plane, so hopefully they will be faithful reproductions.
My home was built in 1935. It has all original windows save one large fixed window that was taken out and replaced with a thermal pane that is now fogging up. I am having a window custom made that will match the rest of my original windows. I will install myself. My question: How were these fixed sashes secured in place? I can see that from the inside they are fixed in place by the stool at the bottom and very narrow (1/2″) stops on the sides and top. But what about the outside? My other fixed window at the front of the house has no stops on the outside, so I can’t see how it is secured so as to not be unstable towards the outside. Was it nailed directly to the jamb, perhaps with finish nails and a nail set?
I’m sorry but I cannot help you with your question. Possibly another reader can. Youtube? Old House Journal online? Check my window repair listing and ask someone. Good luck!
I will continue searching. Thank you as always, Ken.
My home was built in 1998. It has brownish rustic stone on the front and siding everywhere else.
The original owners who we purchased from put in wood windows from a local company which is no longer in business. Most ALL of the windows have rotten wood and most ALL of the windows do not open. There are NO screens so we could not open them even if the wood was not rotten, plus there seems to be warping on a lot of the tracks(where the window slides up and down, I think its called the track).
We would like to know your opinion on what we can do to remedy this bad situation.
We are thinking the best thing is to purchase new windows that open and have screens so we can enjoy the great outdoor air (we live in the country), but we are unsure what windows to purchase?
We are interested in something that will LAST !!!!! and not break (open and close smoothly with ease, ones that lock securely, have half screens if possible(we don’t want are view obstructed too badly), and I must admit maintenance free is appealing because we do not want to end up with rotten wood again (we are not far from retirement) so we were considering wood aluminum clad or wood composit clad.
We have also been told to stay away from wood windows because the wood is not the same as it used to be and unless we stay on top of painting it OFTEN with a super high quality exterior paint that we will most certainly have another rotting problem.
We hope you will read this and take pity on us by giving us some helpful and honest information.
Thank you in advance !!
Well no maintenance means cannot be maintained. The windows are disposable. It is possible that the windows were neglected but also that the windows were not good to start. Check Heirloom Windows. I think the people that told you about the high maintenance of wood windows just want to push non-wood. As with everything you have to keep an eye on it and take care of it. Many people wait until it is too late. New clad windows will fail just as wood windows. Wood can be maintained to last but not the others.
Recently purchased 1929 home with double hung windows (20) in Winters, Texas south of Abilene.
Looking for someone in that area to restore the windows.
Why not look at my list of restorers? It’s there – wish I had the time to hand feed people.
I have restored over 40 double hung wood windows so far. I recently moved to central Illinois into a 1916 home and need to do at least another 20. All of the past windows I’ve done have used glazing and points to seal and retain the panes. Many of the windows I now have used nailed in quarter-round as the retainer. Was this a thing, or should I revert back to glazing (which I would think would provide a better seal)?
Yes I have seen this and do not know the reason for this. Hopefully a reader may know. However I would keep it the way you see it now for that seems to be the way it was originally. Consider bedding the molding into some glazing to prevent water from entering. My barn style garage doors are this way.
hi,
Just wanted to say what a wonderful page you have and thank you for the generosity of you’re time.
I’ve learnt a lot and can counter builders who told me to tear out old grade A teak for Acu class because rhymes were “done”.
Because of your page I have the knowledge to take care of the house my dad designed with care 60 yrs ago.
Now to find someone in my European country who isn’t booked up for the next five years !:)
Thanks again 🙌
A.H.
Your post makes it all worth while. Thank you and best of luck!!
Does anyone manufacture the aluminum inserts that seperate the sashes and provide the vertical channel for the sashes to move on? Thank you
Good question. Old windows usually glide on a wood track which should NOT be painted although they all are. Some have lead inserts. I would contact the Window Preservation Alliance.
I need restoration on some double hung wood windows in Los Angeles area.Who could do it? Regards, Jack – jacknovackpr@aol.com
Did you check my resource listing?
Before reglazing my windows, should the wood be moisturized with linseed oil/terp or primed before installing the putty?
I’ve read that old windows will absorb all the oils from the putty, which will cause it to fail prematurely. Also, what to do if my painters don’t want to use Sarco putty, and also claim you don’t have to remove all the old glazing only the parts that are cracked. My windows are from the 70s and have no rot at all, but the restorers don’t want to work on non-historical windows.
OMG what timing. You are 100% correct. I haven’t done glazing for a while and had to look it up only last week. Oil primer versus linseed oil. The answer was not easy to find but either is good to use. I used primer for that was easier and the wood was not so dry to need to soak up linseed. If the wood were real bad I would use both. Sarco is great. If you just need glazing contact a local glass business. I used them to come to my house to replace a broken garage door window. The glass was about 12 tall and it cost $100. So you may want to contact a glass place or do it yourself if you can. Just remove the glazing that comes out easily – don’t kill yourself doing it.
I’m in Fontana. Looking for window restoration of my 1926 home.
Fortana? – we are supposed to know where that is? Why not check my Resource page to search for restorers by state? All you need to do is to look.
https://www.oldhouseguy.com/old-house-resources/ The link is in a large box at the top with large letters. There is also a large image on the windows page where you were at to help find people to restore windows. in the event you are not able to see it.
Does your book cover single hung farmhouse window restoration?
I don’t know what book you are referring to. I did not write a book on windows.
hello,
i have a 1904 old queen anne on the water in Deltaville,Va. had the windows restored, reglazed, made operable, etc.
water appears to be driven through the glazing during a wind driven rain. i.e. it puddles on the inside against the glass on the sash with no other evidence of running or dripping there. this is on multiple windows.
is this acceptable after reglazing and i need to put storms on to mitigate?
was hoping to not put on storms for looks and function
thanks
Kirk
Hi – that should not be happening. The glazing should be painted with that paint slightly overlapping on the glass. There should be no way for water to get in. I would have the restorer come look at them. Storms are good but you definitely do not have to have them.
thank you for the response.
Just found this. Thank you so much for the time and trouble that you took to put this together. With the links and your information it’s an awesome resource.
For everyone in the past and in the future, I just want to express gratitude and best wishes.
Thank you!