Wood storm windows – Aluminum storm windows – Interior storm windows, etc.
All exterior storm windows serve the important purpose of protecting your valuable historic wood windows from the elements and save energy.
Interior storm windows save energy but have other benefits over exterior storms.
As stated earlier, storm windows today deliver the same revolutionary window technology that is available from the most advanced replacement windows without their high cost.
Don’t be fooled. A Wood or other storm window with LOW E coating will give you energy savings you need without replacing your original window. If you missed this page, read it now . Here we discuss the curb appeal of different types of storm windows.
Historic wood storm window.
The bad part is that all exterior storm windows detract from the appearance of your house. Interior storm windows however do not.
History
Exterior storm windows have been around since the 18th century and became common at the end of the 19th century.
To the right is a page from The Mulliner Catalog of 1893 . Here wood storm windows are available to match the window sash design. Click to enlarge.
2-1/4 inch stiles are standard but 3 inch stiles are available. Stiles are the vertical boards on each side of the storm window.
Storm sashes were 1-1/8 inch during the time.
1893 Catalog – Storm window designs.
Windows Without Storm Windows.
As you learned on our Windows Designs page , window sashes are recessed in the window casing.
This provides depth and shadow lines, stimulating your senses, and creating interest.
If the window sash has true divided lights (multi-paned), the window muntins create additional shadows and interest.
The unique thing about all those separate panes of glass is that each reflects light a bit differently.
Passers-by see a dancing reflection as they adore your home and the pattern changes as the sun moves.
No storm window shows nice sharp details.
Left: Bare window looks great. Right: Storm creates 2 dimensional look. Still better than a replacement window. (photo credit: This Old House)
Pros:
- Bare windows look beautiful – full design with sharp details are allowed to shine.
Cons:
- Without exterior storm windows – energy loss.
- Windows are not protected from the elements resulting in more frequent maintenance.
Solution:
- Install low profile exterior storm windows with Low-e glass for window sash protection and energy savings.
- Install interior storm windows for energy savings. More on this later.
Windows with Exterior Storm Windows.
A beautiful exposed window with all its glory loses some of its character when covered up with exterior storm windows.
The window’s character is reduced when a sheet of glass is placed over a window. You lose some of the sense of depth created by a three dimensional effect. (Although this still looks better than a bad replacement window). This problem is also encountered with the use of full glass storm doors.
Here are some options for exterior storm windows. Below is information about an Energy Star tax credit.
Double Hung Storm Windows.
These aluminum storm windows have a an upper and lower storm window sash.
Storm windows are triple-track so storm sashes and screen can be self-stored in the window.
The price you pay for this convenience is an ugly storm window. These storm windows extend out past the window casing to provide space for screen and storm window self storage.
Good news – storm windows are now made in double-track.
The reason this is better is because the double-track storm window is less noticeable than the older triple-track.
The new double-track storm window unit is smaller therefore protruding less from the window.
This makes the entire window look much better.
You still see the storm window but there is a nice shadow line around the edges.
The storm window must always match the color of the window sash.
Triple-track aluminum storm window.
500 Series double-track storm window from Quanta Panel
Exterior Storm Window Pros:
- Historic windows are protected delaying maintenance by years.
- Energy savings with Low-e glass.
- Visual – This window has a thin lip where it is attached to the window’s blind-stop. This creates a shadow line around the window casing.
- Aluminum storm windows also protect against condensation. Because the glass of aluminum storm windows is colder than that of the inside windows, moisture will condense on its glass, circumventing condensation on the inner sashes of the wooden windows. The metal frames of aluminum storm windows cannot be harmed by moisture. They safely handle condensation as long as wooden window sills are kept painted and the weep holes at the bottoms of the aluminum frames are kept open to drain properly.
Cons:
- Window character is compromised covered with glass.
- Visual (triple-track) – The storm window protrudes from the window for it is thick to hold storm sashes and screen. This design is quite noticeable and obtrusive.
- Design cannot be modified to match the center meeting rail of the interior window or window light grid configuration.
Solution:
- Install a double-track or single-track storm window. An interior storm window can be installed that will not distract from the aesthetics of the prime window. More on this later.
Compare Double versus Triple-track Storm Windows and manufacturers of Double-Track and Single-Track storm windows click here.
Wood Storm Windows
Another option are the old style wood storm windows.
These windows are usually hung from hooks at the top of the window or held to the window frame with clips.
They are awkward to install and require storage space when not in use.
Once the springtime arrives, these storm windows can be removed. They are finished protecting and insulating your windows and can be stored away allowing your beautiful window to show itself off.
Wood storm windows can also use Low-e glass greatly increasing the energy efficiency. I recently paid $225.00 to install Low-e glass in one storm window.
Historic wood storm window.
Wood Storm Windows Pros:
- Historic windows are protected delaying maintenance by years.
- Very good energy savings especially with Low-e glass.
- Visual – The wood storm windows are removed and stored away after the cold season and the historic windows are fully visible and allowed to show off.
Cons:
- Require storage space
- Difficult to hang.
- Visual – This window is wood and inserts perfectly into the window casing against the blind stop. It is flush with the casing. No shadows are created during the cold months when in use.
- Visual – Window light configuration is not always repeated in the storm window design (see below).
Solution:
- Appearance can be improved by repeating true-divided-light window configuration to match interior window.
- An interior storm window can be installed that will not distract from the aesthetics of the prime window. More on this later.
The wood storm window style in the example using two sheets of glass above is most popular but not the best design.
- The interior window is six-over-six window design while the green storm window is one unit with merely two panes of glass.
Look again at the photo – it does leave a lot to be desired.
The storm window with the best curb appeal will repeat the window light configuration of the interior window exactly as in an example to the right.
This window will have nice detailing like the prime interior window. What it lacks is the shadow line around the perimeter where it will meet the window casing.
Note: All storm windows for double-hung windows just have a meeting rail. This is the horizontal divider of the storm window. It must perfectly match the center meeting rail of the interior window (horizontal piece where the window lock is).
True-divided-light storm window to match the interior window.
Storm window fills space and loses shadows.
Without storm window
With wood storm window.
Wood Storm Window Hardware
Number tacks for wooden storm windows.
Apply one number tack to the wood storm window and one to the window jamb. This way you know which storm windows matches to which prime window. Order storm window number tacks here.
Sash hardware for wood storm windows. Hangers and hooks.
Hanger hooks for hanging wooden storm windows.
Hooks to attach the storm window to the window sill.
Storm Window Mounting Option-Trick
Storm windows can be hung by the hooks shown above. Sometimes to achieve a tighter fit Double-Wing clips (shown to the right) can be added to insure a good seal.
Some people do not hang their storm window from hooks but use ONLY Double-Wing clips to secure them. This is fine but there can be a problem that can be easily avoided.
When the storm window is hanging, condensation on the inside of the storm window can drip down to the window sill and escape under the storm window.
When a window is clipped to the casing, the storm window rests with all its weight on the window sill. Condensation will then collect between the window and the sill which can cause wood rot.
My trick is to use two or more US nickels at a cost of 5 cents each. They are used as a spacer allowing condensation to escape at the base.
What to Do:
Install the window and at the base of the storm window insert two putty knives to protect the window and sill. Between the putty knives insert a screw driver to force/pry the storm window upward giving you enough space to insert the nickels in the areas you choose.
Wooden nickels are NOT recommended for they are too thick and like wood will rot once wet.
Double Wing Clips to secure wood storm windows.
A 5 cent trick to allow condensation to escape from wood storm windows.
Purchasing Wooden Storm Windows.
If you need new wood storm windows, first check the OHG listing of window restorers . Perhaps they can build a storm window or refer you to someone who can. If you do look in the Yellow Pages, search for wood-workers. Don’t waste your time in the windows section!
You may even want to try constructing one yourself.
- DIY – How to Make Wood Storm Windows
- DIY Storm Wood Storm Window by Scott Slider
- PBS Video – The Woodwrights Shop – Simple Sash Restoration and Making
- Historic Home Works (this site is shutting down but some info remains) –
Forum discussion with links on sash making. - alternative link
- Adams Architectural Millwork – Ready to assemble wood storm window kits.
Energy Star Tax Credit for Storm Windows
Storm windows are now approved by the Energy Star program. Anderson Windows tried to stop this for they want to replace everyone historic window and get you coming back every 15 years to replace the replacements. But too bad Anderson lost. Storm windows that qualify for the Energy Star program must have low-e glass however which I really recommend. Quanta Panel storm windows are Energy Star Certified.
All Storm Windows Must Match the Window Shape
Two beautiful Italianate houses, built by the same builder are located next door to each other.
Both have beautiful arched Italianate windows and both have storm windows painted to match the sash correctly.
One owner (top photo) took the extra step and installed the appropriate arched storm windows to match the window sash design. Here this this character defining feature of Italianate architecture can be seen and enjoyed.
The other owner (bottom photo) had the window arch filled in and then installed rectangular storm windows. Here the shapes conflict and results in confusion to our inner senses.
Building elements must all share the same language of the building. In this example a character defining feature of Italianate architecture is arched windows. The window sash is arched, the head casing – window hood is arched, and the shutters are arched.
Allied Windows makes a storm window to fit any window shape.
Arched Italianate storm window matches shape of window sash.
Arched Italianate window sash shape altered to accept a cheaper rectangular storm window. The shapes now conflict with each other.
To our inner senses these are all just shapes – not shutters, windows, etc. A window modified to be a rectangular shape among complementing features that are arched is a piece of the puzzle that does not belong.
While one may think modifying a window this way is insignificant. Now that I point this out, you will see the effect this modification can have.
Both homes are beautiful but if the home in the bottom photo can be so much better.
Where to buy exterior storm windows .
Storm Window Color
Storm windows must always match the color of the window sash. Never use white and think you will get away with it unless your prime window is also white. Remember the point is to make your storm windows fit in and not be noticed.
A popular color for the prime window sashes was dark green (gloss). This color is currently Benjamin Moore Essex Green. Dark green window sashes were popular from the mid 1800’s through the 1930’s with wood storm windows being dark through the 1940’s.
Do You Live in New England?
Window casings are designed differently on New England homes. If you live in New England you need to know what options you have for Eastern Style Window Casings .
Interior Storm Windows
Each exterior storm window has both good and bad appearance issues. So, what to do? To solve this problem, more and more people are putting their storm windows INSIDE the house.
This allows your prime windows to face the world in all their glory, solving the “blank stare” problem encountered by covering divided light windows. Here you get the best of both worlds. Interior storm windows can easily be removed for summer storage and cleaning.
For additional energy savings you can use both an exterior and interior storm window. There are a few great interior storm window companies out there.
There are many types of interior storm windows. You can even make your own for a few dollars. Do a search – there are many ways to make them. My suggestion would be to use plexi-glass.
Since they are not outside, you really don’t need to construct a typical window frame. I just put some wood together, stained it and applied felt weather stripping to the edges so not to scratch my wood-work.
More information on Interior Storm Windows and manufacturers here .
Condensation in Windows
Aluminum storm windows have the added benefit of protecting the wood inner sashes against condensation. Because their glass is colder than that of wooden windows, aluminum storm windows collect and condense moisture that circumvents the inner sashes. Because their metal frames cannot be harmed by moisture, aluminum storm windows safely handle condensation as long as wooden window sills are kept painted and the weep holes at the bottoms of the aluminum frames are kept open to drain properly. By James L. Garvin
With interior storm windows as with all storm windows you should understand and be aware of condensation issues.
Historic Home Works has a forum discussion on window condensation I recommend reading. Here is an alternative link
In Conclusion.
It is always better to install a storm window (they are reversible), than to replace the original sash to prevent heat loss. To better understand energy savings and your windows be sure to read our page on window energy performance .
You have three options to save energy. These articles have recommended manufacturers.
- Get an exterior storm window . More info and manufacturer recommendations.
- Get an interior storm window . More info and manufacturer recommendations.
- Replace the glass in your original window with the newly invented Pikington insulated glass . (don’t get rid of that wavy glass though)
The Door is the heart of the house which (if there is no storm door), creates a feeling of welcome and a desire to enter as it draws you inside. See for yourself. Does a house with a storm door seem more inviting than one without?
Hi I have a 1500 sq house that the whole middle section front is glass panel with storm windows on outside .. the ugly aluminum ones.. I’m wanting to find how I can just trim around them to look nice .. *I’m on a budget and don’t want to replace* any ideas???
Try https://alliedwindow.com/exterior-outside-removable.html Allied invisible storm windows.They make great storms!
I’ve been looking for a double-glazed (thermal) storm window but am not finding much outside of high-end custom work.
Do you know of any sources for a thermopane type of storm window? While I agree with you that curb appeal is highly important, my home is rural and not visible to many people; protecting the historic wood sash is of greater importance in this situation than maintaining an authentic historic exterior appearance. Thank you for an interesting post any any insight you may have!
I just noticed an advertisement on your site for Quantapanel which I will look into. Normally I just ignore any advertising out of habit, but fortunately noticed this one! Any other options you may be aware of would be appreciated.
I have Quanta Panel double track storm windows on my 2nd floor windows.
Try Heirloom Windows.
I had Pella windows installed on my house not realizing they did not come with storm windows. I now have perpetually dirty windows and window ledges Windows also leak cold air in winter. Worst situation there are no storms that can be installed on Pella Windows. I have an older home and am sorry I replaced my original windows!!!!!!
What manufacturer would you recommend for true divided light double hung window replacement? We currently have Marvin TDL (probably 35 years old), and many of the seals are broken, so I don’t think repair is the way to go (I used to have a glazier come and replace individual panes until I realized that was a losing proposition). Two windows are not installed correctly (there is a noticeable gap between the window and the sill).
http://heirloomwindows.com/
I did a lot of research before purchasing windows for a large addition on my historic stone house. It came down between Marvin and Kolbe-Kolbe simulated true divided light aluminum clad outside. I chose the Kolbe because they looked more like old wood windows. I love them, the way they function and the way they work, plus they were less expensive than the Marvins. Once installed into the wood framed wall I trimmed them with architecturally correct wooden (cyprus) trim which is easy to paint and maintain. You would never know the windows themselves are aluminum clad and maintenance fee (except for washing). Good luck.
Hi, Karl
I read your comments with interest. I saw Kolbe & Kolbe Windows at our home show in Pittsburgh and I thought they looked superior to all others. I have a 1940 stone Cape Cod House that has what I have just learned are wooden casement Bee Gee
windows. My husband stripped them all with a heat gun and had maintained them beautifully over the years. The large front window has 48 panes and is eye catching.
My husband built wooden storm windows for them that have worked well for years.
(taking them up and down was cumbersome). Sadly, he passed away in 2017 and I am looking for lighter weight (aluminum ?) ones that don’t look klunky. Salesman is showing me ProVia custom aluminum windows. Frame is attached to sash and stays up all the time; insert is taken in and out. He quoted $4,200 for 14 windows.
I don’t know. Any suggestions ?
Sounds like a lot of money to me unless you have arched windows. Quanta Panel storms cost about $200 a window with low e glass. I’m sure that includes installation though which should be about $40 per window.
Have a 1910 house with tons of stain glass my Grandpa added over the years . Still using the wooden custom fitted storms and screens. But can’t deal with all the up-keep over 42 windows they are all the hunter green painted with Benjamin Moore. and need glazing what do you recommend for replacement. Not many folks near me to repair. Been doing it all myself last 12-15 years Would still like them to be green.
If you will consider replacing your historic windows then sell the house to someone who will appreciate it and value it. There is no option – you must restore. I can’t repeat everything I have on my window page of my website but what more can I say that I haven’t said already. Your house needs someone that loves it and evidently you don’t.
Wow. Just found your site while looking for screen ideas. I’ve found your site helpful but am surprised at the level of judgement in your last answer. The person said they’ve been trying to maintain the windows, by themselves, for 10-15yrs. You have no idea if this person is disabled or ill, lost their job, etc. So no, it is not evident they don’t love their house and your unkind answer was uncalled for.
If you are not able to maintain your house then it is time to move into something you can afford and maintain. You do what you have to do and should care enough about your house to sell it to someone who can afford to take care of it. No excuses. Read this. http://www.oldhouseguy.com/financial-hardship-historic-house/
My blind stop is actually the window casing. Can I not use wooden storm windows since the storm backside has nothing to rest on but the upper sash?
Hi Nick: That’s strange. How does your upper sash stay in. The blind stop is supposed to hold it in place. Without a blind stop you wouldn’t be able to have storm windows.
So happy to have found your page! this past winter is the first in our house. And while it was orig build in late 1800’s there have been many modifications over the years- aluminum siding, addition of aluminum storm windows, addition of balloon construction 2 story at some point and bathroom back entry way within last 5 yrs.
Any way I digress. Last winter being the first I noticed on windy days the curtains would move inside. lots of heat loss overall. and already added insulation to the ceiling and attic space.
we turned our eyes to the windows- my guy had someone from anderson come out last night. ekk I walked in part way through and just became skeptical of the claims this guy was making on the savings of replacing 16 windows and how their renewal windows were the way to go!
Yes The Jam is punky at at the bottom of the north facing windows, prevailing weather comes from this direction.
My questions is does one take their windows fully apart, and rebuild, replacing wood casing, wood sash. are there any good options if we need to replace cracked windows? It seems to me that poss updating storm windows to non aluminum or even keeping aluminum & some how taking care of air movement around seams is better option than replacing all the windows with the crap that is made today.
I am all for looking into interior storm windows as well since our winters here in Upstate NY can be brutal. 3 wks at neg day time temps last december really sucked!!! furnace ran non stop.
Additionally when I tried to find some one local the link to http://www.onbalancesolutions.com/ near me in Ithaca NY has shutdown order in pursuant to Federal court order, so you might want to pull your recommendation of that company on your site.
I really can’t say. Some windows will need more work than others. The more through the restoration the better shape your windows will be in.
Other Exterior Storm Windows.
While wood storm windows are most historically correct, there are quite a few other types of modern storm windows available for historic homes. Some are advertised as invisible allowing the shadows to be visible and some duplicate the appearance of an old fashioned wood storm window.
I’d be interested in some other options like above. Have beautiful reproduction 12 over 12 single pane windows with an interior storm and the maintenance is starting to get to me. Is there a minimal exterior storm, with narrow frames, probably aluminum, available? Happy to send a photos of my current look.
The info you are looking for is there – click on the links.
I have a 1917 Craftsman house with many wood windows, the first floor interior original oak or chestnut. When we painted the house, we removed the aluminum storms. After much searching, we found a window restorer who makes wood storm windows. He puts removable glass in the bottom and you add a screen in the summer. It is all done form the inside. We also had the sash restored by him. It is expensive and a lot of work.
We have a second floor stairwell window that it too high to be opened and had a fixed wood storm made by him.
After a year, we noticed splits in the wood–when he came and removed it mushroom- like plants were attached! I was horrified–but I see now it was the condensation of this south facing window that was closed up tight and never opened from the inside. So wood storms are not the best solution is some cases as I have found out. We have spend so much money and time on these, I am at a loss on what to do now. I could open the window most of the spring and summer, but not sure if that is enough. My house does not have central AC.
Any ideas would be appreciated. The restorer says there is some sort of ventilation he could put in the wood but he can’t seem to locate it anymore. Would the metal double pane storms have this issue also?
Thank you.
Hi Cathy. A window needs to breathe. It doesn’t matter if it is wood or aluminum. There must be weep holes at the base for condensation to run out from between the windows. You may have missed this link. http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1991&highlight=condensation
Ken,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, I see that condensation is a serious issue and needs to be addressed. This is a second floor hallway window and will not get any real use. If I opt for the double track by Quanta and this window does not get opened, will I have the same issue of condensation or are they adequately vented? I do not really need a screen here. I hesitate to buy a another wood storm as this person making them says he can not find anything to ventilate them as he did in the past. He also suggested a screen on the bottom in the summer to be changed out, but again this window does not get used.
Also, won’t my restored original window be damaged by heavy rain in the summer if there is no storm at all?
Cathy
Cathy
Hi Cathy – I don’t know if there will be enough ventilation. I would post your question to http://historichomeworks.com There are a lot of window specialists on that forum. Also storm windows will protect your historic window.
i had Pella Windows installed not realizing they did not come with storm windows. My windows and sills are always dirty and they leak cold air in the winter. I can’t find any storms that fit these windows! This is also safety issue..
You shouldn’t need storm windows with replacement windows – that is usually why people get new windows. Storm windows are custom sized to fit your windows. I recommend Quanta Panel or Allied Windows.
How does Mon-Ray compare to Quanta Panel? I ask because Mon-Ray is touting their sound-abatement qualities, which would be a benefit to us. Thanks.
They are both good storm windows. All storm windows have sound abatement qualities.
I am in the Jacksonville area of Florida. Can you tell me whom I can contact for INTERIOR ALUMINUM STORM WINDOWS ? Thank you.
All you needed to do was to click on the link. http://www.oldhouseguy.com/interior-storm-windows/
I have a 1940’s cape on the Cape of no Cod. It is not heated and not used in the winter. It has old 6 over 6 wood windows over which hideous aluminum triple track storms have been added. Couldn’t I just replace storms with wooden shutters that close in the winter like in the olden days?
Good idea.
Hello,
in our 1910 Connecticut house we have about 42 windows, most of them 6×6 or 9×6. When we bought the house it had triple-track aluminum storms that were functional, and ugly. When we restored and repainted, we ordered Adams Architectural custom low E low-profile wooden storm windows with exchangeable storm/screen panels above and below the meeting rail: they look very nice, and offer good sound insulation and significant energy conservation. But the job of switching storm and screen panels is arduous, and we have reached the age that we must hire young men to do this for us in spring and fall. Lately I have noticed some neighbors tilting out their wooden storm sashes from the hinges at the top (a variation on a hopper window), and securing them with slender stays, then placing screens under the old interior window sashes, and I’m wondering whether we should consider this solution instead of lugging heavy glass panels in an out in spring and fall. Could we even use the existing screen panels to do this? Do you think this would be a reasonable solution? I realize that this plan would partly undermine the way double-hung sashes originally were meant to work, but on the other hand it would be great protection from moisture, and would spare us expense and abrasions and bruises in spring and fall. Just how sad are you when you see old storm windows tilted out in warm months? And if we did opt for the storm window stay, where exactly should that be screwed into the window framing?
Hi – yes I know what you mean. I have seen people keep their wood storms on all year round as you have. The problem is that the wood storm is not attractive but neither is a wood screen. My suggestion is to keep your wood storm on all year and prop it open when you want the window open. Get the expandable screens https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Window-Screen-24-26/dp/B00133F8VY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1331906614&sr=1-8/kenroginskihisto and that will do the trick. I love these screens. I also recommend painting them to match your window sashes.
Thanks, Ken. Relieved you find this an acceptable solution. I should also say: not only the insulation, but also the extra security offered by a good storm window is welcome in our city, and we never leave ground-floor windows open overnight or when we are away.
And Ken would you please recommend a hardware line for storm window stays? Do you recommend stainless steel? How heavy/visible do these stays need to be to do the job, and which are easiest to operate?
Sorry Lynn – I have no experience with stays.
(I just made below comment in a section better placed here. Feel free to delete that but please respond here)
So, just made it past the half-way point restoring 57 1905 double hung sashes and a few single. Now, I’m crazy enough to start looking at rehabbing the original wooden screens. (Maybe due to my current lead levels?)
So many originals in the US are black mat that I assume this was standard but still my experts can‘t tell me the best way to accomplish this / the paint used. It’s so thin it almost looks like a stain. And yes, i agree with your disdain for covering up such wonderful craftsmanship/restoration but up in the tundra along Lake Superior, it’s either that or bug induce anemia for the summer.
Any experience? Thanks in advance.
Hi Ben – not sure what you mean. Are you referring to painting the actual screen black matt?
Hi Ken.
Screens as well, yes. It looks like traditionally the whole unit (wood frame and screens) were painted in a type of tinned paint/stain. This allowed the wood to breathe and kept the old steel screens from rusting. Any idea which paint mixes were used then and what the best options are now?
Hi! I’m glad to find all this great information.
I just purchased a 1924 historic house in Jax, FL. We have 36 wood windows of varying configuration. We looked into replacing them and were quoted $2,800 a window down to $830/window. That seems insane and will ruin the look of our historic house. The previous owner installed interior storm windows of some but they are nailed in place. Is this typical of interior storm windows? I thought they were suppossed to be able to be removed. We are having a lot of condensation inbetween the orginal wood windows and the interior storms and we can see mold growing. Do you recommend replacing the interior storms? We also have a structural issue in a sunroom that has been raised by a tree 3″ and all the windows in that room are crooked and have major gaps at the tops and bottoms. Would correct interior storms also help here?
Hi – interior storms should not be nailed in. Some fit by compression. I would replace the interior storms with one of these. https://www.oldhouseguy.com/interior-storm-windows/
As for the tree problem, I would try to remove the root if you can. Otherwise I would look into exterior storm windows. If your windows are out of alignment then they should be fixed and the cause should be also so the windows can go back to their original position. They aren’t going to get any better.
I have a house with inward opening casements. I am looking to replace existing triple track storms with single pane storms and screens that can be removed from the interior. The only vendor I have been able to find is Allied Window. Are there other comparable products? My goal is primarily window protection and convenience of replacement.
Sorry – I really don’t know.
Hello Ken, I have what was a “camp” built in 1937, it has old single glazed windows on which I would like to add double glazed storm windows. I am thinking of two pains of glass with just one minton in the middle going across. The present windows are 6 over one. Does double glazing make sense? The old windows do not fit too well.
I love my camp, but beautiful might not be the word every one would use. However I want a wood look. I live on a windy hill top.
Any help and ideas are very appreciated. Sara
Hi Sara – If I am following you correctly you currently have double hung windows 6/1. The storm window would be the usual storm window which is 1/1 and the meeting rail of the main window would line up with the separation of the storm window in the center. I am not sure what you mean about double glazing. Glazing is the putty holding the glass in a wood frame. A storm window is one pane of glass which is all you need. You have an option of regular glass or low-e glass which is much better depending on the region you live in. I hope this makes sense and answers your question.
I came here looking for help because my 250 year old frame farmhouse has a BIG problem with insects getting between the aluminum storm windows and the double-hung windows. Bought this house four years ago so don’t know how old either are. The storm windows had to be removed and then put back on in the process of removing old aluminum siding (when we bought the place) So I don’t know how well they fit, nor whether they are properly caulked (but I doubt they are). I’m wondering if new storm windows would make a difference? Although I’ve always suspected that many insects are living inside the walls and getting in that way. I did try to caulk inside the windows and did not seem to help. Last year we had an invasion of “lady bugs” or maybe box elder bugs–hundreds and hundreds and hundreds. When I tried vauuming them up, more and more appeared, so they must have been inside the walls. Help!
It is very important not to caulk the bottom of your storm. Condensation needs to run out of the window or everything will rot. You do NOT want a perfect seal. Can’t figure out about the bugs. May be best to get an exterminator.
Hello, I have a 1929 bungalow in Minneapolis with lovely, 9 lite windows. I presently have triple installed storms with an ugly meeting bisecting the windows, boo.
These windows measure 20″ by 54. My questions are, do I need a meeting if I were to make new windows? If so, an I still use standard sized wood for this?
Thanks!
If you have double hung windows there is a meeting rail. The storm window must also have a meeting rail or it will look very strange. I really don’t understand the rest. Please proof read, and correct and I will get back to you.
Do you have an opinion on the Provia double hung low-e exterior storms that Harvey sells?
Sorry – not familiar with them.
I have an 1893 Victorian with lovely original windows and super ugly triple track exterior storm windows. I want to replace the storm windows, but I’m concerned about my screens, which I need both to keep bugs out and my cat in. Looking at the adjustable screen windows, it seems as though they are held in place by the window sash. If I need to remove the screens to close the windows, that would be problem. Am I wrong about how the screens work? If not, are there screens that can remain in when the windows are closed?
Yes adjustable screens get removed so you can close the windows. If that is a problem then replace your triple track storms with double or single track as shown on my website.
I had exterior wood storm windows made with a removable lower glass panel that I can exchange with a screen for when I want my windows open. They work similarly to a wooden storm door. I love them. I had them made by Double Hung Windows here in Winston Salem, nc
I have a 1925-year-old home with leaded windows. Twelve of the windows open inward like a casement window. I am looking for a full glass storm window/screen where the glass can be taken out from the inside and the screen will remain.
my parents have over a hundred year old house they have the exterior storm windows that are silver the aluminum ones and I was wondering we painted all the windows wood trim black. I was wondering do you think it would look okay if we painted the aluminum frame of the exterior storm windows do you think we should paint that black or leave it silver what would be better for curb appeal of selling the home being it is so old?
The main window and the storm window must match.
I have an old house, 92 years old, and the screens and wooden frames need to be replaced. The windows are inside. I would like someone to come to my house and give an estimate.
Thank you
Linda Bergman
Why are you posting this question here? The information you need is right in front of you so please read.
G’day Ken,
Thanks for a very useful article. I wonder, is it possible to have a storm sash that stands slightly proud of the window frame? We don’t have much available depth in one of our windows. What fixings could we use instead of turn buttons? Or would we use long screws and have the turn buttons sitting up a ways?
Cheers,
Sarah
Hi Sarah – if you want a wood storm window to sit proud don’t do it. The reason is that the rain water will hit the top of the storm and get on the inside and will do a lot of damage. Get an aluminum storm to avoid that problem.
Excellent web page. My house was built in 1920 and I was going to make screens to hang on the outside. Now I will look for adjustable screens. We had them in the 70’ in our NewYork City apartment. I love my wavy glass. I will make the in door storms and get them operating this spring for adjustable screens. We do not have central air or heat so working windows and storms are important
Can I get some pricing info and options? I am currently restoring about 20 100 year old windows and will need storm and screen replacement options. MOst windows are the same size, 24 wide by 63 tall. 4 of them are a bit taller but all the same width. I can send photos or whatever else you need. Thanks
It looks like you didn’t take the time to read the article before posting here. What makes you think I am a window salesperson? Is there any reason you cannot contact the window repair recommendations I have?
I’m just about to order black exterior storm windows. The exterior sashes are black but the casing inside my house is cream colored. I’m wondering how the black windows will look inside my house. Anyone have a picture of this similar situation?
Interior can be natural wood or white for example and when looking outside you will see the inside of the storm window but not much. It is ok and correct for the storm window that faces the interior to be a color that has nothing to do with the interior wood.
Hi – great article – you’ve inspired me to start building a few wood storms to protect the 1894 double hung windows and improve efficiency. Few questions you might have answers to – I was planning on mortise and tenon joinery using 1x vertical grain doug fir with a simple 1 over 1 layout. Most windows are in the 50″x30″ range, so glass would be 25×30 – is there a point where i should step up to 5/4 framing? Also – is it preferred to dado the top rail/meeting rail to slide the glass into or is it ok to just rabbet and point all four sides of each opening?
Hi Doug – I am so sorry but I am not able to answer your questions. I would probably check with the Window Preservation Alliance and The Craftsman Blog listed on this page. https://www.oldhouseguy.com/wood-window-restoration-companies-carpenters/
I have exterior wooden storm windows, and two of them have sliding windows at the bottom. I haven’t seen that anywhere else. What were those for?
Without seeing a photo I think I have seen them. They are basically storm windows with a small opening for some fresh air if needed.
Hi there, I saw a previous comment you made on recommended sash color options. I have a 1920’s colonial revival in NC. About to start refinishing all of the windows, peel the vinyl siding off and restore the German lap siding underneath, and throw away the fake plastic shutters.
Exterior cladding and Windows are currently white. Any thoughts on our idea of going more of a darker, bolder color for the siding, and then keeping the sashes and casings white? Or any other suggestions? Thanks! Great info on your website!
Yes you can keep the window sashes and all the trim white. Really any body color will work. I would try to sand down the wood to see what colors were on the house originally. In some areas the paint may completely peel away from the wood. Look at the underside of the paint chip. It may or may not be the original or older paint color. It can also be primer too. You will need to experiment.
Hi! I live in a VERY cold region in Canada. The house I bought has original wood windows from 1941, on the first floor, the principal window was protected by a big porch, so everything is good, and we leave the wood storm windows all year because they open and are beautiful! But on the second floor, it is another story. We wanted to look into restoring them, we began with new wood storm windows all well done (were very $$$) but even by opening the little holes, we have so much condensation (house is properly heated and humidity very normal) and with cold weather, sometime ice, and I think I am done with the idea of restoration of interior windows. I am afraid condensation will be a part of my life forever if I persue the restoration project (that is 3 times the price of the best fiberglass window replacement). Are wood windows impossible to have in nordic region? If you respond, I am so gratefull, thank you!
Hi – There are storm window kits at Adams ARch listed on my resources page https://adamsarch.com/product/rta-ready-to-assemble-kits/ They offer a mail order kit where they send you the wood, you assemble it and add glass. A less costly way.
You may not be able to avoid the condensation. Here is a forum with links discussing this problem. http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1991&highlight=condensation
I don’t have a quick answer but reading the above link and the other links listed is the best info I can give you. Hope all this helps.
Hi, I already have new storm. It is the second phase of restoration (inside wood windows) that I am not sure about because I don’t want to deal with condensation, natural or not… after paying lots of cash for them. In winter, water becomes ice, and ice melt with sun, etc. 3 holes ventilation are not enough to take care of all that fluctuations… Humans have to wipe and look and take care, etc. And I refuse to put a plastic in front with 20k new restored windows. My comment was more about being realistic. Love wood. Wanted with all my heart to be eco-friendly etc. But I want to see outside and not open/close holes of the storm all winter long… BUT, I will read all those links with interest and continue the reflexion. Thank you!!!
check this out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwPRm5jr9D8
Any advice about how to paint the inside of exterior wood storms and half-screens? Should they match the outside or should they match the interior paint on the sash and casings?
The storm window is always painted the same color on the inside and outside. The storm window matches the window sash.
I’ve got an old log house so the windows are thick, about 8-10″ deep. The windows are french style they open inwards like a french door. But the windows are mounted on the interior and the storm windows the exterior, right now everything is painted white. I have been painting color on the interior and plan for a classic colonial red trim on the outside. My predicament is what to paint the interior window sill and the outside facing part of the windows. For example, I painted the living room a lovely green, including the windows and the trim that face inside, the interior window sill is white and so is the outside facing part of the window and the exterior window trim. When I paint the exterior trim red, do I also have to paint the deep sill and the exterior window red too? I am afraid it will be too dark feeling and when you have the windows open it will be red not green showing on the interior. I was considering doing a cream but your article showing the sash and casing being different colors deters me. Let me know if any of this makes sense, it’s a unique predicament!
On the interior, the baseboards, window casing, all millwork including the window sash should match. This is the next part on the exterior. https://www.oldhouseguy.com/painting-windows/
Great info here.
I’m getting ready to replace and restore 42 wood storms here.
In reference to your nickel trick on the frame and sill to prevent condsation
Can the number tacks serve that same purpose?
On opposite sides for balance of course and less likely to slip out.
I haven’t ordered a set yet so wasnt sure of thickness
Just a thought
I don’t think it is thick enough. When you insert a nickel first insert the storm. Then take two putty knives and put them under the storm. Then take a thick screwdriver and insert it in-between the putty knives which protects the storm and sill. Push up w the screwdriver and insert a few nickels. It may be difficult to put the storm in the window with a rough surfaced tack but it may work for you.