Wood Window Shutters Maintenance – Keeping your Shutters Out of the Landfill.
If you have your original shutters, treat them as if they were gold. Just because they’re rotted does NOT mean they cannot be repaired. Use a high quality exterior wood filler for rotted wood (not bondo).
Keep them painted. If the louvers are operable, be cautions of paint buildup. When you have your house painted, the painters will probably offer to replace your real shutters free of charge with fake vinyl shutters. This is easier for them than scraping, repairing, and painting the original ones. Don’t depend on painters or contractors to mount them properly – almost 100% are ignorant when it comes to this. The result is more harm than good. You are now the expert and must instruct them.
There are not many places that make shutters today and they’re very expensive; so, maintain your shutters, protect your investment, preserve history, and let your house shine with character.
I also suggest attaching copper flashing or a metal shutter cap that can be painted to the top of the shutters for water protection. Water sits on top of the shutters and over the years may be able to get into the wood. Use a shutter cap on new and old shutters to extend their life.
Going Green – Back to Basics to Protect the Environment
“R” value for a glass window is about an R-1 rating. A piece of solid wood 1 1/8 inch thick is R-1.755. A closed wood shutter will therefore provide approximately R-2.78 of insulation. Add an interior storm window for additional insulation.
Non-Wooden Shutters
After all you learned so far, a vinyl or aluminum shutter doesn’t even qualify as a shutter. However, we all need to be more conscious of our planet and our forests and the depletion of our natural resources. Remember (wood shutter owners), it is better to maintain and repair than replace. There are many new man-made products being invented to replace the use of wood. However, they must be indistinguishable from the product they replace at an arm’s distance.
Painting Shutter Colors.
By far the most popular color for shutters throughout history is dark green – Benjamin Moore, Essex Green, Gloss to be exact. Secondary colors were black or a red color. Darker shades were favored to continue the visual concept of the window void when shutters are closed.
Another bit of information about why shutters were painted green comes from our reader Dick L.
The color was also thought very helpful to the eyesight. The mid-19th century pattern books (Downing, especially) talked a lot about how NY was at the same latitude as Rome, and Americans, who naturally hailed from the British Isles, would be injured by such strong sun, in particular their vision. The filtering effect of louvered blinds (as the shutters were called which had movable louvers) painted in a dark green would help protect the eyesight, especially that of ladies, who are, of course, very delicate.
All shutters during the early 19th century and before were painted green. This was because the pigment used to mix green paint protected iron hinges from rusting. Shutters that appeared black during this time were really just a very dark green.
Brown shutters didn’t appear until the 1860’s.
Black shutters were used on Colonial Revival houses as a miss-reading of dark green.
Purchasing Exterior Window Shutters.
Ok, you now know how a shutter should look on a house. You also know how important this is. With what you know, it is up to you to articulate what you want to the shutter salesperson.
Remember, LET THE BUYER BEWARE. DO NOT assume that since you’re paying a lot of money, and buying from a recommended shutter manufacturer that specializes in Historic Buildings, you can be assured you will get Shutters and Hardware that will make your home look as it did 100 years ago. There are some good manufacturers out there that produce historically accurate shutters and hardware. You still need to order the right products to get the look you want. Use the wrong hardware to hang them and you just wasted your money. Your house does NOT have to be historic. If your house was just built, the same rules above apply – it’s all about making your house look the best it can.
Remember, mounting shutters to the side of the window frame is wrong. For buildings constructed prior to the Civil War when Strap Hinges were used, some of the casing may be visible due to the Pintle being mounted more centered on the face of the casing.
People are accustomed to seeing improperly hung shutters. They are accustomed to seeing the trim around the window not being covered up by a shutter. Manufacturers are catering to this demand of the public and are offering them what they want. Don’t worry! You CAN still get the look you want by being an educated customer.
Shop around for shutters. Check their websites and get their brochures. Look at their sample photos. Do they look like original shutters or fake? Your eyes are educated now. Sadly, many of the sample photos in brochures I have seen look fake due to the type of hinges used. Don’t let this stop you, they should still carry the hinges you need.
Next, read every page of the sites I list below. Compare the dimensions, rail height, type of wood, and all the types of hardware available on each site.
Next, print out one of the shutter measurement guides and hardware worksheets available on the manufacturer’s websites. Physically examine your window frame on the exterior and plot the dimensions.
Congratulations, you are now ready to call a few manufacturers and explain:
- What shutter style you want.
- If it will be a working shutter, additional specifications and options such as rabbeted edge, and working louvers, faux or working tilt rods, etc.
- The appearance you want – how you want the shutter hung. They will then advise you on hardware to get that look. You will need a diagram/worksheet while discussing this.
Once you receive your new shutters, install one as a test. If you are not happy with how it looks or operates, you will need to exchange the hardware.
I hope this information has helped you. The purpose of this site is to educate you and guide you in making a purchase that will make your home look as authentic as possible. Please let me know if you think anything should be added or may need a better explanation.
Chris says
You rock! I have learned so much from reading your posts. I am buying hey home from 1925. So excited to put all this new information to use. Thanks!
Leadsafe Queen says
How do you strip shutters, especially ones with louvers?
Ken Roginski says
The same way you would strip anything else but with more difficulty. You can have it dipped but then the solution will get into the joints and can weaken it. A heat guy may be easier.
Erin says
I’m using Smart Strip and scraping by hand. The top of my shutters have fixed louvers and the bottoms have operable louvers. It’s slow going as each side of each shutter takes two rounds of stripper.
Meg says
How should I secure the slats on my historic wooden shutters? Could you advise on restoring correctly and safely not to do any damage?
Ken Roginski says
Restore the shutters just like any piece of furniture. The slats are probably not able to be moved unless you take everything apart. To do that you should contact a shutter manufacturer for advise. I probably wouldn’t mess with them. I really cannot advise you more since I have never restored a shutter.
Nicole Whittlesey says
Hello, we recently purchased a lovely Greek Revival home on the harbor in Massachusetts. Some restoration is necessary, including paint on the front of the house which was getting some splashing from a pot hole in the street which has since been repaired. The house is very close to the street. The windows are original but repaired by the previous owner, and are operable. My questions are with regard to paint color in light of the storm windows and shutters: The body of the house is light blue grey. The sides and back are in perfect shape so rather than repaint the whole house a new color, we will stay with the light blue grey and repaint just the front. The window casing is a lighter shade of blue grey than the body, and the muntins and storm windows are white. The door is inset and has lovely Greek Revival trim around it, and Is a darker grey/green color like the trim of the house. I was thinking of changing the white muntins to black, keeping the casing light grey, and painting the storm windows to match the light grey casing. I also wanted to paint the door and door trim black. Do you think that would be historically accurate? Also, the house has fixed Louvered wood shutters that appear to be original. Many are in need of repair. They are the dark grey/green color of the trim of the house. Should I also paint these black? What do you think about removing them altogether? I wish I could send you a picture, I’m probably not explaining this well.
Ken Roginski says
This is very complicated to follow and this blog is about shutters. Please email me.
Jimmy says
Thanks for the very informative post. We’re currently in the process of having our original, 1880s louvered shutters repaired, scraped, and painted. I’ve been looking into the copper drip caps you mention. I’m stuck on one point, though, and the vendors I call offer little clarification: should the cap extend over the rabbeted edge? On one hand, I’d like to keep the shutters operable (primarily for aesthetic purposes, but still). On the other, I worry that by leaving just the rabbet uncovered I’d be encouraging the water infiltration I’m trying to prevent. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Ken Roginski says
Good point. Maybe no drip cap but keeping an eye on the tops and adding an extra coat of paint every few years may be just as good.
John Ahern says
Ken,
What do you recommend for arched shutters as a drip cap? I assume copper for its malleability but what to bend with? Is heat used or recommend kerf cuts?
Please advise.
Ken Roginski says
Good question. I don’t think you need any flashing on an arched shutter since the water wil run off. A shutter with a flat top will allow the water to sit on the wood.
Matt Donnelly says
Ken, I have an 1819 Federal home in Waterford VA. The entire town is a National Historic Trust site. I have easements on the home. Some of the front shutters (original) are falling apart. I need to fix them. Is it worth deconstructing them entirely and re-assembling after strip/patch, or should I simply try to find or have a replica built? I HATE getting rid of anything original. Thanks.
Ken Roginski says
Well I agree with you. I would hate to get rid of something so old no matter how bad the condition was. I would look into restoring them. If you do replace them you should still keep the originals stored in the basement as artifacts. It’s like storing original vintage clothes in a closet for safe keeping but wearing reproductions to a party.
Matt Donnelly says
OK. I think I may deconstruct them and then put back together. With some wood epoxy and a lot of hours, I feel like I can save them. Thanks.
Linda LaRose says
My husband is getting discouraged about how long it is taking him on this, his 5th DIY old house. Can you tell me where to start looking for paint contractors who work on historic homes? I don’t want to get just anyone and I know it will be expensive, but he won’t be satisfied with mediocre work. We only need storm windows and windows and shutters done.
Ken Roginski says
You can check my resource page for my contractor listing. I don’t have painters but maybe you can get a referral.
leslie ervin says
is there a good source to purchase louvered shutters that will be in keeping with the moveable ones we have . Our house is an 100 year old farm house?
Ken Roginski says
the info you want is there –
Ohlert says
Howdy Ken,
Do you have any leads on where to go for old shutter hinges? I’m working with Ball and Ball, but it’s not looking promising. And the salvage places I’ve tried have been a bust. Here’s a link to photos of the partial hinges I have. They are unique, and I’d rather not resort to the replica acme ones.
https://www.oldhousedreams.com/user/13567/?profiletab=photos
Thanks for the great articles!
Ken Roginski says
I would not kill myself searching for them. Have them recreated by a machinist. Chances of finding what you want is rare.
Patty Donald says
I hope you can help me. I am trying to repair interior wood shutters from our 1884 house. I haven’t found anything here that deals with interior shutters. Some of the louvers are broken and it seems easy to get things apart but not so easy to get things back together again. If you have any ideas or somewhere I can search for how to do this project I’d appreciate any help you can give me.
Ken Roginski says
Sorry I don’t know anything about repairing them but I would try contacting a good shutter company. If you find any info, please post it here.
Amy Manson says
Hi We are looking for shutter repair in Stroudsburg, PA, do you know of anyone!
1783 house…shutters look like they were added…68 shutters
Help
Ken Roginski says
Check my resource page for preservation contractors/carpenters by state.
julie davidson says
I have 22 shutters and after painting would like to get shutter caps/gaurds. they are very expensive for as many as I have. do you know of a less expensive way to cover them? possibly with vinyl or something form lowes or Home Depot?
Ken Roginski says
Get a piece of copper or aluminum and make the flashing yourself. Do not put vinyl on.
Bucky Swider says
Hi Ken! Good stuff here- stuff that can’t be found anywhere else! I’m starting in to restoring the shutters on my 1790s farmhouse (although I believe the shutters are circa 1910 or thereabouts). My plan is to remove all the hardware and have the hardware and shutters stripped individually before putting everything back together. And with some of the stuff, it will be easy- slotted heads and nuts hold the hinges on. I’m guessing that due to occasional repairs over the past 110 years has brought subtle differences to some shutters. The one that’s giving me a hard time now is that I seem to have some shutter attachments hardware that is simply a smooth bolt head on BOTH sides. I don’t know what these things are- they didn’t have sex bolts 100+ years ago, did they? And if that’s the case, how did they tighten them down with no heads on either side? So anyhow, trying to figure out what they are to figure out how to get them off without too much damage to the shutter or hinges. Thanks!
Ken Roginski says
No you are correct – there should be slotted screws. Could the smooth bolt have one end that the other bolt is screwed into? That would be difficult to unscrew without damaging the wood.
Clay Reichert says
Great articles. I’ve been building and installing cedar shutters for the last 12 years on about 400 homes. I’ve been following most of these rules and achieving beautiful results that look authentic and functional although I suspect my customers never close theirs. After having removed thousands of failed, rotten, falling apart shutters, they all have one thing in common. They were all built with pine and/or a composite material unsuitable for moisture. I have only used naturally rot-resistant cedar and have not received any rot issues whatsoever in these 12 years. I’ve also never replaced anyone else’s cedar shutters. Material choice is an extremely important decision when you are investing in quality shutters and I strongly recommend cedar. It’s dangerous to rely on only caulk and paint to protect your investment when you can choose cedar that can endure broken caulk or peeling paint.
Melinda McCain says
Clay – thank you very much. I am curious on the type of Cedar. I understand that most cedar is now grown so quickly that it is not as rot resistant as it used to be? Do you have any thoughts on how to choose which cedar and is it something to be aware of when choosing shutters.