Do you have old wood windows that are stuck, rotted, drafty?
Advertisements and professionals tell us to replace those old windows and by doing so you will be:
- Making a wise financial investment in your house
- Being “Green” – saving energy and the environment
- Improving the appearance and making your house easier to sell
Well – you’ve been fooled.
Old wood windows like this can be restored to last 200+ additional years.
The Replacement Window epidemic is just a conspiracy to take your money!
What you have been conditioned to believe about old and Historic Wood Windows vs Replacement Windows is wrong. Here you will learn all you need to know to make an informed decision of whether or not your old wood windows should be replaced.
If you must replace your windows, you will know what to shop for based on the design and style of your house, and which window designs to avoid. YOU will become the pro!
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Learn how to REALLY Save Money on heating bills – Save Energy – Save the Environment.
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See the latest research and Cost Analysis on Energy Savings with New Windows vs Original Windows.
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Learn how to Repair your old historic windows.
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See and recognize the design differences between Historic Windows, Replacement Windows, and Storm Windows and its enormous affect on Curb Appeal.
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Find a Window Maker or Restoration Specialists in your area.
Understand the Truth About Windows
There is a great deal of information to read here including links to other sites for important reading. This is something that must be done before you undertake a monetary and aesthetic investment. I cannot stress this enough. Let the buyer beware because there’s no turning back!
Windows are the eyes of a house. They are the most important character defining feature creating the greatest visual impact on the overall appearance of a house. A house with replacement windows is a damaged house.
Because of this, the decision to replace an original wood window must be carefully considered and understood. We all want to reduce our heating bills and save money. How can we do that with 100 year old, drafty windows that are in bad shape? You can – there is no need to compromise. Read on and see for yourself.
You are currently at Part 1 of “The Truth About Windows”
Window Information Continued . . .
Thank you! I love my old windows 🙂
I’m wanting to have partial rock-look or real rock siding installed on my home and some regular siding as well, but I was told when the quote came in at around $30k that I needed all new windows in order to put the siding up. Is this true?
No this is not true. I would contact someone else for an estimate.I would avoid the rock look. If you have an old house it just won’t work. It’s just a big money making fad now.
I have pella doors in my basement. There are 4 doors but the ones on the end are stationary. So the movable doors in the middle are on a track and open wide enough to drive a car into the basement. But they are 22 years and it’s time to replace the doors in my favorite room in the house – a 2000 Sq ft basement- no poles thanks to my $5000 investment in engineering and steel. What brands do you recommend? The showroom I visited deals with Marvin Windows and Doors. Your take on that brand?
Sorry but I don’t have an opinion or any suggestions on doors.
We live in a hundred-year-old co-op landmark brick building along with ten other families. Our windows (100) are not leaking but are rotting around the lintels and frames. I have enqiured and researched about restoration vs replacement. The cost to restore each window(4over1) double hung was quoted starting a $1500 with it possibly going as high as 4k. The cost to replace (marvin next gen or kolbe) was around a grand per window and a grand to install. We don’t want to lose our interior moldings which are nice, kolbe will factory paint, marvin will prime, the outer aluminum clad has to be a landmark approved hunter green. We are close to starting the project, just figuring between marvin/kolbe. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
$1500 is on the high side. I recommend Heirloom Windows. Give them a call and see what they have to say. Much less than Marvin. http://heirloomwindows.com/
We have a 1925 Craftsman home with original wood windows (6 over 2). We are adding a second floor and are looking at Marvin “Integrity” windows. Would you suggest we try to match the 6 over 2? It seems like no matter what, they are going to look different and perhaps we shouldn’t draw attention to the differences by attempting to make the same grid pattern. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you!
Hey Kin – yes they should match. Try Heirloom windows for the best match.
I have a 100 year
Old house in the South. I would like to made a glass with magnetic strips to hold the glass on the outside if the windows. Any suggestions.
You should proofread what you write before hitting the submit button. Holding glass onto a window with magnetics sounds ugly.
I have Pella Windows with the glass insert inside (making the old way of 2 panes of glass) with Dark Oak Stained Trim on the inside and White on the outside. (42 years old) The screens are rusty and dark. I love my windows on the inside and am considering Storm windows/outside, my husband is afraid they will be ugly. Considering Larson Gold storm windows in White. Do u think this will help with the energy bill and would you just take the Pella screens out before the install and use the storm window sceens. Thinking for Full Screens on storm windows for security, etc. Been scary some installers were $15k- $35K for replacement windows and said they did not know how to get the Pella windows out?
Storm windows are definitely not attractive but then again neither are Pella windows. If I understand what you are saying I think you have the grids on the inside which I know look cheap and awful.Full screens on any window also look bad. They just darken the window too much. You have Pella windows which have insulated glass. There should be no need for a storm window. Storms are for original single pane windows. Never get a full screen for as I said they darken the entire window. If you want them for security that is the wrong reason to rationalize the purchase. Get an alarm system.
I live in a 100 year old farmhouse. The windows are original. The upper sash is stationary. 6 over 6 top and bottom. My problem is, they are just windows in a wood channel, no sash weights. No screens. Original screens were full window, in wood frame that attached outside, which are long gone. I have reworked windows, replacing glazing and added weather stripping many years ago. The windows don’t stay up, I prop them open using wooden dowels. Some don’t even have locks. I use the same dowels to place up top to prevent opening when not in use. My windows need to be re glazed and painted again and I need screens. What should I do?
You’re right using the dowels. I wouldn’t buy screens. Get the expandable screens I show on my storm windows page.
The home I bought 4 years ago turns 80 this year. The home has the original wood windows throughout except where one was completely removed by a previous homeowner in the main floor bathroom. A tiny glass cube window was installed in its place that sits high above the tub. Looks like this one found on Lowes.com “REDI2SET Wavy Glass Pattern Frameless Replacement Glass Clear Block Window”. On all the full size six over one windows on the main floor, approximately nine, a previous owner of the home installed painted white aluminum storm windows with built in fabric screens. Luckily I discovered the original wood storm windows have survived in the basement and I am considering removing the aluminum storm windows and reusing the original wood storm windows. Is there any reason why someone would go through the trouble of installing the aluminum sets instead of just using the storm windows? None of the storm windows are in terrible condition and only a few require minor reconditioning. I also have most or all of the original wood screened storm windows as well. The kitchen window is original with the original wood storm window installed and it is the best looking window on the house. It looks solid. The smaller basement windows are all wood interior with an exterior wood storm window. The bathroom in the basement has the same window I assumed used to be on the main floor. What should I do? Should I try changing the aluminum storm windows out one room at a time? Also was flashing always used on drip caps or is it likely that it could of been left bare?
Wood storm window do a decent job but they are a real pain to put up every fall and take down every spring. I do this only on my first floor and dread doing it every time. With aluminum storms you get a better seal and the screens are there already. They don’t require taking them down and putting them up. What you can do it give it a try with one window and see what you think. Look on the window and storm window for little tacks with numbers so you know which storm goes on which window.
Yes – there should be flashing on drip caps.
Hi Ken. I’ve been poking around this site for a few years now and finally have something to write. I have a 1908 home that is not quite folk Victorian and not quite American Foursquare with old replacement windows. They are hideous. They are white metal. Interior grids. They radiate cold, despite having storm windows (also ugly, and incorrectly installed outside the jamb so they scream “look at me!”) We are preparing to replace them because many are broken/won’t open/won’t stay closed, I can’t find parts for them and we’re sick of the storm windows + cold. We live in New England, I should say, and we are the first house outside a new national park that was created around the historic mill village in our town (Slatersville, RI). Obviously, preservation is a priority here, but not a requirement. Also, we bought an old house for a reason: we love the character, history, and quality of old houses. I even own a copy of “The Practical Builder” by William Paine. So, I’d like to restore our home’s windows back to what was originally there. Problem is, I don’t have the original windows. They were thrown out in 1980 when the prior owners replaced them with the metal 2 over 1 monstrosities we have now because they had lead paint on them.
Now, I’ve read so much about windows here, that I am either going to try to find some salvaged sashes (there is a HUGE salvaged house parts place just over the line in MA) or have new ones made by Heirloom but but one thing I haven’t come across is how to tell if my window frames are intact? When we renovated the upstairs last year, we had to remove the plaster in the bathroom because it was wet and moldy and some ancient plumbing and wiring had to be removed from within the wall. We were delighted to see that the weights and pulleys of the two windows were still in the wall behind the trim. I suspect our replacements are the “insert” variety that utilized the existing frame. Now, I can’t open all the walls in the house so is there some other way to know? This is obviously an important factor to consider before getting estimates for new or acquiring and restoring salvaged sashes.
Another thing: how the heck do I figure out what is the “right” window? Do I assume the 2 over 1 was what there so that’s why it was chosen? It’s hard to tell since there aren’t any other homes like mine in the area, and mine doesn’t have a distinct style (Craftsman, Foursquare, etc) to stick to.
Last question, in regards to adding a window: you have said the shape/size of a window should not be changed…how about adding one? Our foyer is dark like a cave, despite being on the south side. Probably because it doesn’t have a window on the south side. Just a stained glass one (original) on the west wall in the stairwell. We’re considering adding a window or a sidelight but are pretty nervous it will look out of place. Right now though it’s a dark box. The door is original, very craftsman, with a squarish window in the top 3rd.
I look forward to a response.
Hi Joyce
First off, please email me (and paste this message in). I would like to send you some links to authentic builders catalogs that may help you determine correct styles.
True there is a very good chance that the replacement windows copies the 2/1 that was there. I really need to see your house but most windows were 1/1. Many Craftsman homes and Colonials had 6/1. It would be great if you could get an old photo from a prior owner. I would still try to contact them.
As for reusing your window frames to attach a window with the weights – you present a very good question. Unfortunately I can’t help you with that. What I would do is take some large format photos and contact Heirloom Windows and ask. Another person located in the Boston area is The Window Woman http://www.window-woman.com/ . I would actually call a few people – that’s just the crazy way I do things just to get a good understanding. You need good wide angle photos – not tight close-ups so people can zoom in close.
You can add a window but I would need to see pictures to give you my opinion. You can email me.
Ken
I had no idea that my old wood windows could be repaired! All I ever hear is that they need to be replaced with vinyl.
windowrestorationma@gmail.com
I would love to promote window business’ on my site. There is no reason for you to pretend you are writing a comment just to have your website listed. If you are an honest business I would hope you would not make dishonest posts. I guess you couldn’t bother to read my website to see that I promote window businesses. This is good information for readers to be cautious of.
Good afternoon!
I came across this site while trying to determine if the windows in my 1937 cape cod style house originally had a half screen or not & wood storm windows. They are 6 over 6 and yes, the top sash can come down. The sashes both ride on metal bands. Right now they have really awful aluminum double track storm windows that do have screens but they don’t fit at the bottom properly and so the previous owner sprayed great stuff along them. They also did a poor job at repainting and glazing. So I am going to take the job of overhauling 20 windows back to original condition. I will use expandable screens after taking off the storm windows. My question is, what is your take on using big box glaze and exterior latex paint vs the ones that are available that are made with linseed oil? And would it be strange for the time period to have the sashes a different color
than the casing?
Thanks!
Angel W.
OMG – they really made a mess. Get Sarco glazing putty. This is the best on the market by far. I used it for the first time a few weeks ago. https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-glaze-windows/
https://thecraftsmanblog.com/which-glazing-putty-is-right-for-you/
Sashes are usually a different color than the casing on older pre WWII homes and definitely on earlier homes.
Good luck
Nice post!!
Good evening,
We recently bought a house in Georgia that was built in 1920. My husband persuaded me to switch out all the windows on the backside of the house for new vinyl ones. I did not want to do this, but agreed with him that they were definitely in need. We had three of them stuffed with newspaper to fill the gaps! Now we have new generic vinyl!! 🙁
Anyway, he now wants to replace all the windows. I do not! Do you have any recommendations of companies in the Macon, Georgia area? I am concerned that it’s going to cost more to restore than to replace. Is that generally the case? I really want to fight him on this, but don’t have a leg to stand on if it’s going to be more expensive.
Thank you so much and advance for your time and advice.
Hi Lisa – your husband apparently has a weak mind and the victim of marketing schemes for replacement windows. He is making a very ignorant financial decision not to mention that once the windows are replace the house is considered damaged. You will be remembered in the history of the house for destroying it. I recommend moving into a new house and sell the house to someone that will value it for what it is and divorce your husband for he is not a good person. This house survived 100 years only to be destroyed by you and your husband. All the information you need to create a case to preserve your original windows is on my website. If he still wants to replace them then that shows he does not respect the house or neighborhood. As you should have read the cost to restore may be comparable to replacing but you will be replacing and adding to the landfill every 15-20 years while an original window will last 200 years. If he does not understand that then there is no hope – get out while you can.
I just contacted my friend at the State Hist Pres Office in GA. She said to conatact Landmark Preservation LLC – they may have window people or refer you to someone. Also try William Crowe of Crowe Development his number is 706-207-2362. He has restored and gave demos on how to restore windows. Also a listing of carpenters – scroll down. https://www.georgiatrust.org/resources/preservation-consultants/
I am in a similar situation to Lisa, having remorse over our new Anderson windows, nine replaced this week in a house from 1898. Most others were already replaced before we bought the house and we decided to replace the rest. I went along initially but then realized how wrong we were. I kept all of the old hardware—pulleys and some sash weights too. Plus one window just because…I know we screwed up and it’s too late. My husband thinks I’m nuts for being this upset about it. We are more outdoors folks than home repair ones and bought the old farmhouse more for the land than the house although it’s lovely. It’s too late now but I must say, as a couple who is not super handy around the house (although learning) we felt overwhelmed with the restoration process. Anyway, just needed to express my regret and remorse somewhere. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Hi Ken,
I am new to the site but have really enjoyed going through a lot of the material in the past few days. I also enjoy your banter on this thread!
We just purchased a 1920’s Tudor revival style home in upstate South Carolina. The inspection noted a lot of rot and damage to majority of the wood windows, which are original. I definitely want to restore them and wanted to know if you have anyone you highly recommend that services the area. I saw a few companies (double hung, austin restoration) on your site but didn’t know if you had a go to. Thanks!
John
I am in NJ. All I can do is refer you to my listing by state.
My grandmother was suckered into a window replacement scam .I always felt she had the best house in town.1875 with windows unchanged.I live in the same area and happened upon the demolished window that the contractor admitted was no match for his unlicensed crew, when I called his co and told them to keep out and that they owe my fathers mom a new window, they insist she pay THEM 100,000.00 . My grandmother has no money and she signed a contract
Is it true that she still has to pay ? I don’t want to see her become homeless or see her lose her only home her grandfather built.
Wow – first I would contact your local code enforcement since they are not licensed they can get a big fine. They may have some legal insight to your contract also. You can also contact your State Dept of Community Affairs – or depending on your state a division that deals with construction codes and contractors licensing. You would also be best contacting a lawyer. Usually you can give a brief description of your problem before you have to pay for a consultation. You can also search online for legal sites or forums to post your question. Before you do anything you need to be able to articulate the problem in a simple and clear way so it is easily understandable. Write this down in bullet points first. Ask a friend to review it to make sure it is understandable. Good luck!
We are working on a 200 year old house with huge storm windows that one pane is on hinges. Was that used to get at the turnbuckles on the outside or did they have another purpose?
Sorry it is difficult to picture, please email me.
Hello. This is a great article. I’m buying a home built in 1847, and later expanded into the current style in 1872.
The old windows were neglected. Many are missing glass. Some are missing the entire bottom half (pane and bottom frame). Is it cost-effective to rebuild a window that is missing the entire bottom half of the window?
Finally, how do you handle a situation where an entire window is missing and there is nothing to rebuild? I have this situation in two areas that had the entire interior stripped prior to purchase and will be reconfigured. They are both in an area that was later added to the house and never completely matched the original size of the windows in the original section of the house (nor can they due to different roof heights). Would it be appropriate to choose a different-sized window that better matches the intended use of the area?
Thank you.
Windows are expensive so it may be more cost effective to rebuild part of the window than have a new window fabricated. If there is no window then you need to have one built. Your questions are important and can’t be answered lightly by the info in your message.
I cannot find anything about indoor window hardware on your site – we need to replace the awful vinyl replacement windows that were installed by a prior owner in our 1908 home and are going with Norwood wood replacement windows 2/2 – I cannot find whether or not interior sash has any hardware or not (pulls?)
Can you help please
Donna
I really don’t have much in interior however there should be a latch at the top and some type of pulls. This is they type of lock for a 1908 house. https://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/window-locks The traditional style. You may also want to purchase a tarnishing solution. First use lacquer thinner to remove the protective coating then use the tarnisher and it will look like it was always there. That will give the best look or you can also get one with an antique finish. Here is another good company https://www.vandykes.com/window-hardware/c/397/
As for the pulls my 1910 has the Recessed Sash Lift.
Just bough a 1905’ish solid stone house in branford CT. Original windows. I’m holding out like Custer to find a GC that would consider fixing them. Every person thinks I’m nuts for considering it. There’s one guy in CT, but it like many on here the cost to restore is more than new “efficient window”. I’d love to do this myself, because they’re not in that bad of shape. Barley any rot, its just that most won’t line up and lock, and they’re wobbly as well when they re closed. Anyway, just here to vent and maybe see if there’s any advice I could get. Anyway to posts pics or send you some so you can give me an idea if it’s worth the restore?
You have a great opportunity to educate people on the importance of original windows. Here in Central NJ a 6/6 window that was removed, restored and reinserted cost $1000. There was one person that gave an estimate of $3,000 – that was crazy and far from the norm. $1,000 should still be far less than a new replacement. It seems that if they don’t line up it is more of an issue with the frame holding them.
Don’t give up. Check the other listings of window restorers besides mine and also read what I say about a referral from an architect. https://www.oldhouseguy.com/wood-window-restoration-companies-carpenters/ It will be well worth the restoration. There is also a lot of videos online if you want to diy.
I would suggest Window Restorations of Connecticut
My wife and myself have a California Spanish Style Bungalow, we did an addition and had to add wood windows, we did a Bullnose edge into the window frame. i am afraid my contractor didnt use metal flashing on the top as it would interfer with bullnose and I am worries about a leak. We have had a alot of rains and not leak yet. But at some point after settling it is gonna leak, am I screwed and have to break out stucco or just wait til happen?
If the drip cap is angled it should be ok but still better with flashing. If not you really need to add it although it would be difficult to get under the siding above. This shouldn’t be your problem. The contractor should have known better. Get him to fix it.
Hello, we have a 92-year-old home in Moorestown, NJ, with original windows and wood sashes that need restoration. Every contractor wants to sell me replacements but I don’t like them. Can you please recommend a reputable restoration window contractor in South Jersey? Thank you.
Mullica Hill looks like the most southern area. window restorers in NJ
The director of the NJ Historic Trust also lives in Moorestown. Not that it helps. On that listing you also check the recommended Preservation Architects. Margaret Westfiled of Westfield Architects in Haddonfield should be able to recommend someone. She is great!
My new neighbor just replaced what I call “country English diamond-paned” windows with new windows. It has changed the whole appearance of the once-charming home. I’m curious if anyone knows if those old windows go to a salvage yard for re-purposing into another home? Thanks —
They go into the dumpster as the new windows will go in 10-15 years. Bad neighbor probably raised badly – don’t talk to them since what they did will decrease the value of the neighborhood.
My husband and I are disagreeing- he wants vinyl replacement windows (tight budget) and I want to keep our old wood windows and just replace the storms. The house is a 1950s ranch and the windows are original. Would you also consider these worth saving? They need some touch up but they’re generally in decent shape (except the storms). Thanks!
Hi – I know you read everything about windows already. Modern wood (after the 1940’s) is junk. HOWEVER – to replace modern wood from the 1950’s is really expensive. Even if the 1950 wood is only made of cheap pine, you can keep that wood maintained and it will last forever. Add a storm window and you have extra protection for that wood not to mention energy savings. So bottom line, if I had 1950 wood windows and they were salvageable and even if they needed repair, I would still value them and keep them. You will never get your money back on a new window investment so use that money for repairs and storm windows and you will be way ahead of the game. Remember that these window sales people have been expertly trained. They have the answers and the stats. However the stats come from company funded testing. Check out a price on an exact wood window replacement. It is just throwing money away. Good luck with your husband!!
Thank you so much! As a follow up– on the off chance that we could get the vinyl windows for a really deep discount (including installation), what would you recommend then? Would double pane vinyl windows even be an improvement over our wood ones?
Even cheap plastic window are a poor financial move. Why would you throw money away and sacrifice the appearance of your house. Many people think that they may be dead in 15 years and will not have to replace the replacements but that is bad karma. Don’t take them even if they are free for you will forever have issues and future owners will not look on you nicely.