How Exterior Shutters Can Ruin the Appearance Of your Home And What You Can Do to Fix Them
- The History of Exterior Shutters and How They Were Used
- Where Shutters Went Wrong
- Shutter Mistakes – Exterior Shutters Today vs Historic Shutters
- Exterior Shutter Hinges
- Hardware for Shutters – Types of Shutter Hinges
- Some Examples of Good and Bad Shutters
- What Style Shutter is Right for My House?
- Wood Shutters Maintenance
- Going Green
- Paint Colors for Shutters
- Purchasing Shutters
There is a lot more to Shutters than you think
- Make one of the greatest impacts on the appearance of a house
- Are a feature that is easy to add to your home
- Provide the most bang for your buck in beautifying your home
- Can ruin the entire appearance of your house if not done correctly
Yes, shutters, just as windows, can be your best friend or worst enemy. Exterior shutters can make or break the appearance of your house. This important feature is the most abused in about 99% of homes. Yes, shutters can subtract from a beautiful house and make it look bland and out-right ugly! The good news is that the bad can easily be fixed and allow your house to come alive with beauty. Read on and you will discover what most people are doing wrong and how easily exterior shutters can make your house pop with beauty.
The History of Exterior Shutters and How They Were Used
Exterior wood shutters over the course of history were not only aesthetically pleasing but provided a necessary function with their many uses. They were used for security, provided privacy from outsiders passing by, added an extra layer of insulation during winter weather (with wood having a high R value) and blocked out the sun, preventing damage to furniture. Movable louvers allowed a breeze to enter a home, keeping the room cool on a hot summer day.
Earlier shutters were either single board, or board-and-batten (vertical wood slats) which were very basic. Raised solid paneled shutters then appeared and provided a lighter, more elegant look. Fixed louvered shutters then came into use during the second half of the 18th century.
Historically, those with raised solid panels were referred to as “shutters” while those with louvers were called “blinds”. Most homes would have solid panel shutters on the first floor for privacy and security and louvered shutters on the second floor to allow the breeze to enter during the warm months. Some shutters combined both features – a raised solid panel on the lower portion and louvers on top.
“Operable Louvered Shutters”, louvers that are regulated by a tilt rod began to be manufactured around 1830-1840.
With the advent of the Storm Window in the later 1800′s, shutters began to be removed and stored away before the cold months and wooden storm windows would be installed. Removal was easy – all you needed to do was lift the shutter off the pin on the hinge. Shutters could also remain on the building, left in an open position. During the warm months, the storm windows would be removed and shutters would be closed to protect furniture from the sun and allow outside air to cool the house. Please note that this was all dependent on the type of shutter hinge. It is possible that the storm window would not be able to be inserted into the window jamb if a shutter hinge was in the way.
At the end of the Civil War, awnings (Preservation Brief #44 – Awnings) became popular and screen windows began to come into use. Screen windows were just like storm windows except they had screens in the wood frame. In addition to these screen windows, adjustable screens (The Adjustable Window Screen Company patent, 1866) still sold in hardware stores, or lace curtains also served the purpose. In some styles of architecture, shutters also began to fall out of fashion. By the 1920′s, although some shutters were still used for practical reasons, most were strictly decorative. Those that were purely decorative however, were still functional or had the appearance of being functional. Homeowners could operate the shutter to cool or insulate the home if they wished. There was no difference to the appearance of the house. Unfortunately, this changed during the 1950′s with the advent of Aluminum Siding and Aluminum Shutters. This is when the dreadful problem we have today began.
Where Shutters Went Wrong
The public has always been in love with a traditional look, and shutters provide that look. Aluminum siding and aluminum shutters started to be heavily marketed in the 1950s. To simplify installation of aluminum shutters on aluminum siding, shutters began to be installed by mounting the shutter on the siding NEXT TO, instead of directly on the window casing, and without the use of hinges. Eventually, people became more lazy, less knowledgeable, and more insensitive to the appearance of their windows and began using the wrong size shutters. Before you knew it, they were putting rectangular shutters on arched windows and whatever else you could imagine!
This is where we are today. As you see, shutters have evolved in a grossly unfortunate way. Sadly, we too have evolved to accept this new bland look. It is now normal and what we expect to see when we look at a house with shutters. Read on and we will re-train your eyes to understand, see, and feel the impact of a architecturally correct shutter. We use the term Historic Shutter to represent a visually correct, properly mounted and designed shutter, as all shutters should be, including those used with contemporary architecture.
Exterior Shutters Today vs Historic Shutters -
What is Wrong and What to do Right
The goal of this website is to enable readers to make their house architecturally correct which would then be aesthetically pleasing. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of correct shutters. Think of the windows as the eyes of the house and the shutters as the eyebrows (although to the side) to understand the impact. If the shutters are the wrong type or mounted incorrectly, they can ruin the appearance of the entire house. Yes, the money you spent on restoring that new front door or painting with authentic Victorian colors will be wasted if your shutters are incorrectly hung.
Most people look at shutters as a decorative feature with no further thought. The decorative shutters are installed and the mission is accomplished. How dreadfully wrong! The following is what you need to look for and, once you see the difference, you will pick it out every time. There are a number of points you need to understand about shutters in order to make your house look great.
On historic louvered shutters (Blinds), the louvers were either Fixed or Operable. Each type provides a slightly different look. Fixed Louvered shutters are appropriate for buildings built prior to the Civil War. Operable louvered shutters grew popular quickly although fixed louvered shutters remained in builders catalogs into the early 1900′s. The louvers are in a stationary open position allowing a certain amount of air and light to pass through. The louvers must be fixed in an approximately 25 degree open position. Purchasing a Fixed Louvered shutter with flat closed louvers (0 degrees open) as sold in home improvement stores results in a flat artificial appearance due to the lack of shadows. Unfortunately this is the type of shutter you see on all houses today, no matter what the period architecture.
Fixed Louvered Shutter with wide louvers
Operable Louvered Shutter
Operable Louvered shutters were first used around 1830-1840. Operable Louvered shutters can be adjusted by a Tilt Rod to regulate air-flow and light. Shutters with operable louvers and a tilt rod create a shadow pattern providing the best depth, contrast, and character.
Even if your shutters are strictly decorative they must appear as if they are operable. A “fake” shutter from a home improvement store would have louvers that appear to be fixed in a more tightly closed position than they normally would be if they were to actually operate. The amount of space opened would not need to be as great as 25 degrees as Fixed Louvered shutters (as explained above), but should not be totally flat either in order to look real.
Additionally, there should be a tilt rod. This is an important feature that is always overlooked and greatly affects its appearance. A false Tilt Rod should be attached to fixed shutters to appear operable. Failure to achieve this look will greatly sacrifice the appearance of the house.
When a historic shutter is in the closed position, the louvers should be pointing downward to shed water away from the window it is covering. When in an open position, the louvers will be pointing upward. Water will be shed to the back of the shutter towards the house; but, no need to worry, there will be air space from the hinge offset for runoff and drying.
Shutter Size Errors
Another mistake which is almost always made, is improper shutter height and width. The width of each shutter must equal half the size of the INSIDE of the window casing. If both shutters were to close they must sit inside and fill the window casing, covering the entire window in both height and width. Although you may never close the shutters, this is just as important when decorative shutters are in an open position.
Two properly sized shutters must fit inside and fill the window casing when closed
When you look at a window, your mind interprets it as a shape. When there are two shutters (right and left), which are sized correctly, they represent two-halves of that shape (the window opening). Your mind recognizes this, and interprets this equal balance as appealing. Sadly, most people ignore this and are probably busy thinking about watching I Love Lucy re-runs, instead of taking the time to respond to their natural inner senses.
These shutters are the perfect size for two different types of windows. Don’t be distracted by the unattractive imitation-brick asphalt siding, which began production in 1931.
Common sense will tell you that shutters must also match the shape of the window. Many times you will see a beautifully arched window with a rectangular shutter. Your mind is working overtime interpreting these two different shapes and why are they grouped together. Much can be learned by the child’s toy which requires the correctly shaped block to be inserted into the correspondingly shaped hole.
Rectangular Shutters on Arched Windows
In the two pictures above, not only are the shutters the wrong shape, they are also fake, too long for the window, and mounted incorrectly. Just because you pay someone with years of experience to install shutters, doesn’t mean that they will do it correctly. This injustice has already reached epidemic proportions.
Shutter Hanging (Mounting) Errors
Probably the most prevalent mistake made is improper shutter installation. This makes a beautiful house look cheap, ugly, and bland. Sadly almost all shutters are mounted this way and the public has evolved to accept this look. There are two parts to this error.
The first part of the mistake is that shutters mounted directly on the facade/siding of the house, appear banished off to the side of the window as if the window wants no part of the shutter. Visually, it MUST appear as if the shutters are mounted directly ON TOP OF the window casing, next to the window opening. Failure to do this looks ridiculous and drastically changes the appearance of the entire house. You are confusing your subconscious mind as it tries to interpret patterns and make associations. What is this rectangular shape doing all by itself out there?
Another common mistake is mounting the shutters flat against the house. Here you lose your shadow lines which result in a bland, uninteresting house. When shutters are mounted directly to the face of a house, there is no room for ventilation between the shutter and the house. This results in heat build up from the sun that can cause damage to siding and painted finishes behind the shutter. A correctly mounted shutter should APPEAR to be attached to a hinge, protruding from the house.
There are a few technicalities in properly mounting shutters depending on your window and the type of hinge used. However, the shutters should still have the same appearance as in the examples of GOOD Shutters on this page. When open, shutters should be located tight to the window covering the window casing and projecting outward at the window edge.
Architecturally, it is not necessary for a feature to actually be functional; however, it must always appear functional. Please understand, I think it is wonderful to have historic, functioning shutters, but the goal here is appearance. That said, you may not need or want your shutters to open and close, but they must appear that they do.
Exterior Shutter Hinges
Historic shutters were mounted on hinges. There are two parts to a hinge. One part is attached to the house and the other part is attached to the shutter. The part of the hinge that is attached to the house contains a Pintle – a pivot point for the shutter hinge to rest on. This part of the hinge can either be mounted to the house on the face of the window casing OR on the inside edge (jam) of the window. Each of the two mounting types provides a different appearance.
There are many types and sizes of shutter hinges you can use. A lot depends on your window and how much space you have to mount the hinge. These details and customizations you should discuss with the shutter manufacturer. Here, on OldHouseGuy.com, you will learn what you need to know to get the proper look.
If you think your house originally had shutters, you can check to see where the original hinges were mounted by looking for “ghost marks”. Even after years of painting, you should still be able to see these marks. You may even see them in both places (edge and face) – this means your shutters and/or hinges were replaced. Most likely, old face-mounted strap hinges were replaced in the late 19th century with newer hinges mounted on the inside edge.
Hinge Throw – distance from window opening
One of the most important things to understand when ordering hinges is a term called “THROW”. This is the space between the pivot point of the hinge and the inside edge of the shutter when the shutter is open.
This is very important because if there is a large THROW, or large swing, there will be more space between the shutter and the hinge pivot point. In other words, the shutter will be farther to the side, away from the window opening, exposing more of the window casing. This large THROW will make your wonderful historic shutter appear just like all the fake vinyl shutters you see mounted off to the side of the window. As I stated earlier, each window is different and there does need to be some THROW for your shutter to work. Do not get a hinge with a larger throw merely for the purpose of being able to see the wood casing. Sadly, this is becoming the standard of the best quality shutter manufacturers. And why? Because the consumer is accustomed to the wrong look and that is what they want to buy.
Shutter throw is tight to window with an Edge-mounted hinge
Shutter throw is not as tight to window with a Surface-mounted hinge
Shutter throw is too far, exposing casing. Exceptions can be made for earlier period structures with narrow casings.
Shutters should NEVER be mounted this way – against the facade
Hinge Offset & Standoff
The distance a shutter projects from facade and angle of shutter
I think it is wonderful to have operable shutters but there are technicalities specific to your windows that you should discuss with the shutter manufacturer. My objective on OldHouseGuy.com is to educate you on how your home can have the best appearance. Once this is understood, and if you prefer operable shutters instead of merely decorative, the next step of mechanics can be addressed with the manufacturer.
The next thing you need to understand is the term hinge OFFSET. OFFSET and STANDOFF are important terms in assuring your shutters will not only look good, but also open and close properly. These terms are sometimes used interchangeably.
The Offset and Standoff of the hinge pertains to the part of the hinge that is attached to the house. This part of the hinge has a point or Pintle – a pivot point where the shutter is connected.
The Offset we will discuss here is the distance the hinge extends your shutters AWAY from the window casing. An OFFSET of about 1/2 to 1.5 inches is usually recommended, although each window is different.
The Offset is important because the space provides necessary ventilation behind the shutter and creates additional shadow lines which make your house come alive with interest. Shutters you see today are flat against both the window casement and the facade, without shadows, making the house look bland.
The outer edge of the shutter, away from the Offset hinge, should rest closer to the facade of the house. The fully opened shutter can be secured with a Tie-Back attached to this outer edge (without this Tie-Back your shutters will flap in the breeze). The final result will be a shutter that is angled in appearance.
Shutter with offset angle
Shutter Hinges – Which Type to Choose
There are two basic types of hinges: Edge Mounted and Surface Mounted.
Edge Mounted Shutter Hinges (Jam Hinge)
Edge Mounted Shutter Hinges are also referred to as Jam Hinges or Butt Hinges. These hinges are mounted to the Window Jam – the inside edge of the window casing. Hinge mounting depends on your window construction since the window jam needs sufficient space to attach the hinge. These hinges are mortised into the wood casing and the shutter. For an example of an edge-mounted hinge, just take a look at how a door hinge is mortised. The Acme Lull & Porter hinge was a very popular edge mounted hinge in the later half of the 19th century and after. They were self-locking, meaning when in an open-position, they locked in place, eliminating the need for Tie Backs. The Acme Lull & Porter hinge was Patented in 1854. Click here to see 1854 patent.
Surface Mounted Shutter Hinges
Surface Mounted Hinges are also referred to as Strap Hinges. These hinges are mounted to the FACE of the window casing. These hinges are not mortised into the wood. Strap Hinges are more visible due to the strap supporting the shutter. These shutters also provide a different appearance. Since the hinge is attached to the face of the casing, the pivot point can be no less than about an inch from the edge of the window opening. This results in a slightly greater Throw than Edge Mounted hinges since the point of origin is a bit farther away from the window edge. Surface mounted hinges were most popular on structures built before the Civil War.
Remember with whatever type of hinge you use, try to keep the shutter as tight to the window as possible.
Surface Mounted Hinges for Recessed Windows (usually brick or stone houses)
There is a difference when mounting a shutter on a wood sided or masonry house compared to that of a house sided with Brick or Stone. The window is constructed the same and is surrounded by a wood casing which surrounds the window. On a WOOD or MASONRY sided house, the siding does not project beyond the face of the window casing. Surface Mounted or Edge Mounted hinges can be used and the offset needed is minimal.
On a BRICK or STONE sided house, the brick or stone projects beyond the face of the window casing. The window and casing are recessed. Here, a surface Mounted hinge MUST be used and, depending on how deep the casing is recessed, a greater OFFSET will be required. This will allow the shutter to clear the brick/stone siding when swung open (if operable) or fixed in an open position.
A Tie-Back on a shutter is usually referred to as a Shutter Dog or Shutter Catch. A Shutter Dog holds the shutter in place from the front. Since it is visible, there are many decorative Dogs to choose from.
A Bullet Shutter Catch or Acorn Clip is a pin that holds the shutter in place from behind. This is not visible when the shutter is in an open position.
Other Hardware for Shutters
There is a large selection of shutter hardware to choose from as you will see on the recommended shutter sites. There are locks, bolts, pulls, tie-backs, etc. These items will add additional visual interest to your shutters and house.
Some Examples of Good and Bad Shutters
Bad – shutters are mounted to sides of window; looks flat – no shadow depth; Contractors do this!
Fake rectangular vinyl shutters on arched windows, mounted on the facade of the house. Better to have no shutters at all.
The photos above and to the left are from the same house. I guess the owner was either confused or had a short attention span because the shutters are hung three different ways. There are many windows on this house. Some are correct, but most are wrong.
(Above-left) the shutters are correct. (Left) The arched shutters are mounted reversed. If the shutter were to close it would not fit the window shape. (Above-right) very long rectangular shutters on arched window.
Hightstown NJ, is a very preservation minded town with some great buildings. Unfortunately, this house is the exception.
Just when you think you saw it all! Glass Shutters. Kids, don’t do this at home!
Shutters on a garage. What’s next – shutters on a chimney?
There is an epidemic of contractors AND homeowners destroying the character of old homes as seen in the above examples. This incorrect way is now the standard! If shutters cannot be mounted properly, a house would be better without any at all; otherwise, they can ruin a house and even the neighborhood. As you drive down the street, begin paying attention to shutters and you will see the difference through comparison.
Give up? Don’t want to buy new exterior wood shutters?
Check out some Optional Mounting and Shortcuts for Vinyl Shutters
As you now know if you’ve gotten this far, the ideal way to mount shutters is to use hinges even if you plan to only use your shutters as decoration. There is an option, or should I say a trick, to be used only as a last resort. I only provide this information to those who will not purchase hinges as advised, in my effort to reduce the number of ugly houses.
Even if you have a vinyl sided home, with vinyl shutters, and have no intention on replacing them, you can still achieve a more authentic look. Screw two, 1-inch thick blocks of wood on each side of the window casing near the opening where the hinge would normally be. You may need to shave off the outside corners of the blocks. Take the shutter and screw it to the blocks of wood on the window side, and the other end of the shutter directly to the facade of the house. This will result in an angled shutter – creating additional shadows – resulting in a much much better looking home.
Another shortcut is attaching a false tilt rod. Purchase a wooden dowel, paint it and attach it to your louvered shutters with a liquid nails adhesive.
Although these shutters are obviously fake, the shutter to the left is correctly located on the window casing.
Shutters for Other Types of Windows
Depending on the style of your house, each window does not have to be shuttered. This is determined mostly by architectural design and window style. For example, on a Queen Anne style house, windows in a tower may or may not be shuttered. Larger ornate or smaller sized windows can be left without shutters or may only need one shutter on one side of the window. Think in terms of shutter use – 1.) Would it be practical or useful to have shutters on this window? 2.) If not useful, would it provide balance in design or match another window with shutters? Colonial style architecture is symmetrical and you need to maintain this symmetry.
A Ganged window is two windows side by side separated by a mullion (a vertical piece of wood separating the windows – part of casing). In this situation, you have a few choices (not in any order), but first look for ghost marks of earlier hinges.
- Attach a large (double size) shutter, the size of the window on each end.
- Mount double shutters at each end. The shutters would appear single, but actually are two hinged shutters, folded over. The shutter will close from one side for each of the two windows. The visual effect of patterns will not be disturbed.
- Mount four shutters in the manner you would normally if the window were not Ganged. Since there is minimal space at the mullion between the two windows, the shutters will remain in a semi-opened position and held in place with a tie-back attached to the sill, extended out to the shutter. I have seen this method in original 19th century design plans. If you find ghost lines, you have your answer.
There will be other situations where a window is next to a down-spout or a wall of a house where the shutter will not be able to be parallel to the house when open. Do not omit the shutter.
Here are some examples:
Full View: Shutters blend perfectly. Center window is larger and requires a double width shutter.
Close-Up: Notice how shutters of these two windows overlap each other.
Double folding shutter
Double non-folding shutter
(Above left) Double-shutter with a hinge connecting each shutter. When in an open position can either be wide open as shown, or folded in half.
(Left) close-up view of hinged shutter.
Both styles are historically correct.
Double folding shutters in the folded over position.
Close up shot – see that the shutters are folded over.
Shutter mounting for windows close together
Corner windows should not be forgotten
Here the shutters are sized to cover the end windows
while the center window is un-shuttered.
What Style Shutter is Right for my House?
Look at old photos. If you don’t have any, look around your neighborhood for similar houses and see the kind they have. You can usually tell if the shutters are original. Keep in mind that your house may have been built in 1800 and the shutters replaced in 1900 with a style popular at that time. Shutter styles and hardware are also regional. You can contact your local historical society, though I doubt if any of them could provide any help. Try them anyway; if not, call a Preservation Architect and ask for a recommendation. Your State Historic Preservation Office will have a listing.
Board and Batten shutters and Raised Panel shutters were used during the 18th century and into the 19th century. Strap Hinges were used and Rattail style tie-backs were most popular. Note that Board and Batten shutters do NOT have spaces between the boards like those made today.
At the end of the 18th century louvered shutters began to gain in popularity. Up to the Civil War, homes had raised paneled shutters on the first floor for privacy and security, but did not have any shutters on the 2nd floor. Louvered shutters were often added to the 2nd floor as a later addition.
Around 1800-1830, Butt hinges came into use but were not popular since they broke easily. Strap Hinges were the most popular. Tie-backs were mounted on the sill. Most styles were dependent on what the local blacksmith produced. Operable Louvered shutters began being manufactured 1830-1840.
At the time of the American Civil War, the Industrial Revolution was in full swing and steel suddenly became less expensive. Acme Lull & Porter, Butt and “H” Style hinges were being produced and became popular, although Strap hinges were still available. “L” shaped surface mounted hinges came about in the late 19th century.
The Acme Lull & Porter hinge was actually patented in 1854. Click here for patent details.
From what I have seen in the New Jersey area, most Victorian and Colonial Revival houses have Edge Mounted Acme Lull & Porter hinges with operable louvered shutters. This is the same for pre-Civil War architecture, but in this case, probably, because their original strap hinges were replaced with the more contemporary and popular hinges of Victorian times. Unfortunately today, shutter manufacturers are selling Surface mounted hinges for every type of architecture. Please be aware of this.
“S” style Shutter Dogs were mass produced in 1930′s. They should be used only on houses built during or after this period only. Early 20th century architecture such as Arts and Crafts, Bungalow, and Foursquare homes were usually without shutters.
From 1915 into the 1920′s, Colonial and Cottage style homes had mostly solid panel shutters with cut-out designs. Louvered and the rustic Board & Batten shutters were also used occasionally. If Bungalow and Four-Square homes had shutters, they were usually solid panel with cut-out designs or half-louvered.
Here are some shutters from this period.
This house has solid panel shutters on 1st floor and louvers on 2nd floor
Shutters with and without tilt rods
Board and batten shutters. Board and batten shutters from the 18th century would not have the decorative cut-outs. All board and battne shutters would have either cross or “Z” bracing.
These are NOT Board and batten shutters although I think that was the intention. I would call them Crazy Shutters. I am not sure which planet theses houses belong on.
Keeping your Shutters Out of the Landfill
If you have your original shutters, treat them as if they were gold. Just because they’re rotted does NOT mean they cannot be repaired. For a high quality exterior wood filler for rotted wood, I personally recommend a technologically advanced product made by ABATRON as follows:
Keep them painted. If the louvers are operable, be cautions of paint buildup. When you have your house painted, the painters will probably offer to replace your real shutters free of charge with fake vinyl shutters. This is easier for them than scraping, repairing, and painting the original ones. Don’t depend on painters or contractors to mount them properly – almost 100% are ignorant when it comes to this. The result is more harm than good. You are now the expert and must instruct them.
There are not many places that make shutters today and they’re very expensive; so, maintain your shutters, protect your investment, preserve history, and let your house shine with character.
I also suggest attaching a copper or painted metal cap using an adhesive to the top of the shutters for water protection.
Going Green – Back to Basics to Protect the Environment
“R” value for a glass window is about an R-1 rating. A piece of solid wood 1 1/8 inch thick is R-1.755. A closed wood shutter will therefore provide approximately R-2.78 of insulation. Add an interior storm window for additional insulation.
After all you learned so far, a vinyl or aluminum shutter doesn’t even qualify as a shutter. However, we all need to be more conscious of our planet and our forests and the depletion of our natural resources. Remember (wood shutter owners), it is better to maintain and repair than replace. There are many new man-made products being invented to replace the use of wood. However, they must be indistinguishable from the product they replace at an arm’s distance.
I invite you to consider a wood substitute possibility and research it further. I would be interested in hearing from you. In the future, I hope to present some information on this topic.
Paint Colors for Shutters
By far the most popular color for shutters throughout history is dark green – Benjamin Moore, Essex Green, Gloss to be exact. Secondary colors were black or a red color. Darker shades were favored to continue the visual concept of the window void when shutters are closed.
Optional color combinations are based on color placement. Trim and Shutters are painted the same color although this is not a rule.
Ok, you now know how a shutter should look on a house. You also know how important this is. With what you know, it is up to you to articulate what you want to the shutter salesperson.
Remember, LET THE BUYER BEWARE. DO NOT assume that since you’re paying a lot of money, and buying from a recommended shutter manufacturer that specializes in Historic Buildings, you can be assured you will get Shutters and Hardware that will make your home look as it did 100 years ago. There are some good manufacturers out there that produce historically accurate shutters and hardware. You still need to order the right products to get the look you want. Use the wrong hardware to hang them and you just wasted your money. Your house does NOT have to be historic. If your house was just built, the same rules above apply – it’s all about making your house look the best it can.
Remember, mounting shutters to the side of the window frame is wrong. For buildings constructed prior to the Civil War when Strap Hinges were used, some of the casing may be visible due to the Pintle being mounted on the face of the casing.
People are accustomed to seeing improperly hung shutters. They are accustomed to seeing the trim around the window not being covered up by a shutter. Manufacturers are catering to this demand of the public and are offering them what they want. Don’t worry! You CAN still get the look you want by being an educated customer.
Shop around for shutters. Check their websites and get their brochures. Look at their sample photos. Do they look like original shutters or fake? Your eyes are educated now. Sadly, many of the sample photos in brochures I have seen look fake due to the type of hinges used. Don’t let this stop you, they should carry the hinges you need.
Next, read every page of the sites I list below. Compare the dimensions, rail height, type of wood, and all the types of hardware available on each site.
Next, print out one of the shutter measurement guides and hardware worksheets available on the manufacturer’s websites. Physically examine your window frame on the exterior and plot the dimensions.
Congratulations, you are now ready to call a few manufacturers and explain:
- What shutter style you want.
- If it will be a working shutter, additional specifications and options such as rabbeted edge, and working louvers, faux or working tilt rods, etc.
- The appearance you want – how you want the shutter hung. They will then advise you on hardware to get that look. You will need a diagram/worksheet while discussing this.
Once you receive your new shutters, install one as a test. If you are not happy with how it looks or operates, you will need to exchange the hardware.
I hope this information has helped you. The purpose of this site is to educate you and guide you in making a purchase that will make your home look as authentic as possible. Please let me know if you think anything should be added or may need a better explanation.